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TI I S T R Y 



CARNARVON CASTLE. 



Hnttqfuitifs of ^Jtainaibon, 



a U 1 1) E K R T H E T U lU S T 



TO THE SUEROTT.xniNfi SOEXEUY. 



BY WILLIAM PKITCHAHJ). _ 



CARNARVON: 

('f;il( HAUD, JllOil 8TUEET. LONDON: WlilTTAKEU AXI' 
ro., AVE MAKIA LANE, AND IL lUJOHES, 

ST. :^rAlrnN^s-L^:-GRAND. 
1849, 



5"14-^ 



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/€£^ 



HISTORY OF CARNARVON, &c. 



rcNARvoN is situated on the eastern banks of the 
;>i nai, and is decidedly the largest and most impor- 
tant town in North Wales. The attraction of the 
Castle, one of the most magnificent old ruins in the 
Principality, draws numerous visitors during the sum- 
mer season ; and its superior trade and commerce, 
affording the means for a good supply of the general 
articles of consumption, render it a desirable residence. 
It is, in consequence, much frequented, and, owing to 
its excellent accommodation and healthy aspect, is 
daily becoming better known and appreciated. 

The present town owes its origin to the ancient 
Segontium, called by the Welsh, Caer ar Fon, or the 
stronghold opposite to Anglesey. Segontium was si- 
tuated about half a mile on the road leading towards 
Beddgelert, and the Avails are still in existence. It 
was the principal station occupied by the Romans in 
Wales, and was mentioned by Antonius, as a Roman 
station. Giraldus Cambrensis records the fact that he 
passed through it on his journey in 1188; and Hugh, 
Earl of Chester, had a residence here, and erected a 
fortress in 1098, called Hen Caer Custenin. Llewelyn 

B 



:io 



the Great granted a charter to the Priory of Penmon, 
in Anglesey, and dated it from Carnarvon, in 1221. 

Mathew Paris says, " the body of Constantius, the 
father of the great Constantine, was found at Segon- 
tium, and sumptuously interred by Edward I. in the 
church of the new citie, which he improved out of the 
ruins of the old, and is now called Carnarvon." It is 
said that Helena, the wife of Constantine, had a chapel 
at Segontium: indeed Rowlands, in his Mona Antigua^ 
asserts that the chapel had not been destroyed in his 
days. A well, bearing her name, is still in existence 
at Bryn Helen, near the Pwllheli road, and it is con- 
sidered one of the finest springs of mineral water in 
these parts : in the neighbourhood it is famous for its 
healing qualities, and is used extensively in the manu- 
facture of excellent soda-water. There are several 
places in this locality identified with the name of 
Helen, viz., Coed Helen or Helen's wood, Tyddyn 
Helen or Helen's farm or tenement. Segontium was 
evidently placed on the summit of a rising ground, 
sloping down on every side, forming an oblong of very 
considerable extent, and occupying about six acres of 
ground. In several parts are vestiges of ancient walls, 
and in one place appears the remnant of a building- 
made with tiles, and plastered with very hard and 
smooth mortar: this seems to have been part of an 
hypocaust ; the mortar in all parts is quite hard, and 
mixed with gravel and sand. The fortress was long 
the residence of the British Princes. Cadwallon, the 
son of Cadfan, had a residence here about a.d. 620 ; 
and on account of Anglesey being infested by the Irish 
and Pictish rovers, he removed the British Court from 
Aberffraw to Segontium. 

The present public road passes through the midst 
of the ancient station. Near the steep bank of the 
River Seiont was a Roman fort; on two sides the 
walls are pretty entire; one is 74 yards long, the 
other, which leads to the river, 64, the height 10 feet 



8 inches, the thickness 6 feet ; much of the facing is 
taken away, and the pecuharity of the Roman ma- 
sonry is thus shewn. It consists of regular courses, 
the others having the stones placed in zigzag fashion. 
Along the walls are three parallel lines of round holes, 
about three inches in diameter, nicely plastered within, 
which pass through the whole thickness. Other simi- 
lar holes are to be seen in the end of the wall, and they 
appear to run through it lengthways. Near the corner 
of one of the walls is a heap of stones, the ruins of a 
tower, discovered some years ago. It was paved, and 
in it were found the horn of a deer, and the skeletons 
of some smaller animals. 

A pot full of coins, buried under a tree, was found 
here some years ago ; but to what age they referred 
is not ascertained, neither is it known to whom the 
coins were given. 

A gold coin was also discovered here, inscribed T 
DIVI AVG FIL AUGUSTUS, and in digging the 
foundation of Cefn Hendref, in 1827, several valuable 
coins and relics were discovered. A thin piece of gold 
was found by the Rev. J. W. Trevor, then Vicar of 
the Parish, 4 inches long and 1 inch broad, inscribed 
with mystic characters, principally Greek of the second 
century. The names and epithets shew it to be a 
Basildian Talisman. It may now be seen in the Mu- 
seum at Carnarvon. 

A stone, w^hich once formed part of a wall near the 
road, contained the following inscription, SVC, sup- 
posed by some to mean Segontium Urbs Constantine. 
It was there for many years, but has for some time 
been removed, 

Camden was of opinion, that the ancient Roman 
city, called by Antoninus " Segontium," was situated 
near Carnarvon, which opinion is fully confirmed by 
antiquaries of the present day. 

This once famous Roman fortress has now gone to 
decay ; but its site may easily be recognised bv a very 

B 2 ^ 



slight inspection, from the elevated nature of the 
ground and the remains of the old walls; and to 
make its identity more clear, coins and other inte- 
resting relics of bye-gone days have at various times 
been discovered. During the year 1845, the new vi- 
carage then being built upon this very interesting and 
picturesque site, gave a fresh impetus to the lovers 
of antiquarian lore to commence a systematic search 
(permission having been kindly granted by the Vicar) ; 
and to further this laudable object, James Dearden, 
Esq., F.A.S., the Rev. R. P. Mealy, Robert Jones, 
Esq., surgeon, and others, contributed liberally. The 
result from the very onset proved, in every respect, 
satisfactory ; and for a time created a great interest in 
Carnarvon and the neighbourhood. A large suite of 
apartments were brought to light, supposed to have 
been baths ; besides the foundations, concrete floors, 
&c., of other buildings : and, in addition, a holacaust, 
in a fine state of preservation. Ground plans of the 
remains may be inspected by referring to the 1st Vol. 
of the Arch, Cambrensis. Coins, rings, fibulss, frag- 
ments of inscriptions, pottery, vases, &c., were found 
in abundance. The coins (upwards of 100) belong- 
to the several reigns of Vespasian, Severus, Domitian, 
Maximianus, Constantine, Caurausius, Valens, &c., and 
are in a high state of preservation. The fragment of 
of one slab, 18 inches by 5 inches, bears the following 
inscription : — 

SEP SEVERVS PIVS PER 
VRE ANTONINVS 

Tradition says that Segontium was burnt down, but 
the time uncertain. This was confirmed during the 
late excavations ; for, at an average depth of two feet 
from the surface, a complete stratum of burnt wood was 
discovered, mingled \\'ith fragments of broken slates, 
pottery, nails, &c. 

This interesting spot was finally closed up again, 
after drawings had been taken of the whole; and it 



will remain for ages yet to come, to impart fresh plea- 
sure in further inspection ; and to bear witness to the 
fact that Vandalism was almost extinct in the nine- 
teenth century. 

The ancient town continued in existence until 1288, 
when it was dismantled by Edward I., part of the ruins 
being used for the building of the castle. 

There are several other Roman encampments in the 
neighbourhood, communicating by a raised military 
road, paved with stones, such as Dinas Dinoethwy, and 
Dinas Dinlle, on the road towards Pwllheli ; Craig y 
Dinas, near Llanllyfni; and Dinas Dinorwic, in the 
parish of Llanddeiniolen, near the Church. The area 
of the latter is very large, surrounded with an aggar 
of small stones, backed by another of very large ones ; 
then succeed a deep ditch, a rampart of earth, a second 
ditch, and a third rampart. Within the area is a circle 
of stones, the post, probably, of the commander-in- 
chief. There are several other smaller posts close by, 
viz.. Pen y Gaer, Bryn y Castrelau, Caer Cwm y Glo, 
&c. Communication was conveyed from these by 
means of beacons, or fire-signals. 

The site on which the present town is built, was 
either part of Segontium, or a town by itself, it being 
called Caer ar Fon, or the stronghold opposite to An- 
glesey, an apt designation, when it is considered as 
a place of defence. The name probably arose from 
the several conquests gained by the Welsh over their 
enemies; more particularly, perhaps, from that severe 
encounter, commanded by Prince Owen Gwynedd, and 
the signal victory obtained by him over three combined 
fleets of Irish, Danish, and Norman pirates, about the 
year 1158. This victory was celebrated in an ode, by 
an ancient poet, Gwalchmai ab Meilir. The following- 
passage from the original, translated by David Thomas 
(or Dafydd Ddu o Eryri), will serve to convey an idea 
of the horrors of the carnae-e : — 



8 

The crimson flood of warrior g'ore, 
O'erflowed old Menai's sanguin'd shore ; 
And rippling streams (from side to side) 
Sweird high with blood the briny tide. 

The poet Gray has a spirited version of the Rev. 
Evan Evan's translation of this ode, which is too long* 
for insertion ; a part, however, is subjoined, which will 
serve as a specimen. 

Owen's praise demands my song, 
Owen swift and Owen strong ; 
Fairest flower of Roderick's stem, 
Gwynedd's shield, and Britain's gem. 
In glittering arms and glory drest, 
High he rears his ruby crest. 
There the thundering strokes begin, 
There the press, and there the din ; 
Tal y Moelfra's* rocky shore, 
Echoing to the battle's roar. 
Check'd by the torrent tide of blood, 
Backward Menai rolls its flood ; 
While, heap'd the hero's feet around, 
prostrate warrior's gnaw the ground. 

Wales was the scene of many fierce struggles from 
the dawn of the christian era ; and maintained unequal 
conflicts with other nations for upwards of twelve cen- 
turies. She also bore a conspicuous part in the battles 
of the Roman, the Saxon, the Dane, and the Norman. 
This part of the Principality contains many moulder- 
ing monuments of past ages. It was famed for the 
triumphs of the sword, the prizes of the lyre, and was 
the stronghold of genuine British valour. It required 
the lapse of ages, and the combined power of nations, 
to weaken the strength of the Britons in the mountain 
fastnesses; and they at last yielded only on condition 
of being governed by a prince, born in the country. 
The eldest sons of British kings have, ever since, taken 
the name of Prince of Wales as the proudest of their 
titles. 

The patriotic bards wrote boldly ; and commemo- 

* Supposed to be Tal y Foel, as it is now called. 



rated the struggles of their countrymen in enthusiastic 
strains, which often brought down the signal vengeance 
of the royal invaders. 

It is not necessary in this work to enter fully into 
the history of Wales ; a short account, however, of the 
life of the last Llewelyn, may not prove uninteresting, 
as having reference to the history of Carnarvon ; par- 
ticularly as it was to maintain the conquest, achieved 
on the death of Llewelyn, that Carnarvon Castle was 
erected, 

Llewelyn ap Gruffydd commenced his reign in 1246, 
and succeeded his uncle. Prince David. He was a 
brave as well as an ingenuous prince. His bold and 
able movements against a powerful and overwhelming 
enemy, his great patriotism and love for his country, 
fully entitle him also to be called the Great. It is 
said that a number of brilliant actions, during the mi- 
nority of Edward I., gave rise to personal animosity 
in that prince against him ; and that a continuation of 
them during his reign, caused him to remain his bitter 
enemy. 

That he was an amiable prince, and one capable of 
the strongest affections, is fully proved in his continued 
attachment to the object of his early choice, Eleanor de 
Mountford, daughter of the Earl of Leicester, for a 
• long series of years ; and by the fact that, during her 
detention at the English Court, he offered a large sum 
for her ransom. His negociation, however, failed, 
which exasperated Llewelyn to take up fresh arms. 
On this occasion he marched through the English 
borders, spreading terror and devastation in every di- 
rection. The able movements of Llewelyn caused 
Edward to bear down upon the country the whole 
strength of his military talents. Llewelyn, after many 
fruitless efforts, and seeing his countrymen perishing 
by famine, was compelled to throw himself on the 
mercy of his enemy. The most harsh and humihating 
terms were exacted, one of which was that he should 



10 

attend the conqueror to London, and there do homage 
before the assembled nobles and prelates ; he was also 
required to pay 50,000 marks, as a compensation for 
the injuries he had committed. On his restoration 
again to favour, this amount was returned to him. At 
this time, while at the English Court, he again beheld 
her whom he loved ; and upon entering into a contract 
to appear twice a year before the English Parliament, 
his marriage was at length celebrated on the 13th Oc- 
tober, 1278, graced by the presence of the king himself 
and his queen. 

Llewelyn, soon after this ratification of his marriage, 
retired into Wales. An interval of about two years of 
peace succeeded this event, as the amiable qualities of 
his bride tended to soothe the irritated feelings of both 
parties. At the end of this time the tie which bound 
them together was suddenly broken, by the lamented 
death of Eleanor, who expired in giving birth to a 
daughter, in the year 1280. The grief of Llewelyn 
knew no bounds; and the lament of his favourite 
bards on this occasion are touching in the extreme, 
for she had endeared herself to all around her. 

The stern relentless policy which Edward exercised 
towards Llewelyn, and his continued determination 
to alter the institutions and customs of the country, 
excited the discontent of the nobles, and was consi- 
dered by them oppressive; added to which, suits at 
law against Llewelyn and his brother David were 
always aecided in favour of the English claimants. 
They were also repeatedly summoned to appear in 
person, at different places, to receive judgment; such 
commands being issued more in a spirit of hostiUty 
and hatred than from any necessity. Llewelyn, after 
the death of his consort, refused to obey them ; and 
from that time a spirit of general resistance to the 
English laws was manifested. In 1281, David, Llew- 
elyn's brother, withdrew from the English Court, and 
coming into Wales, opened the campaign by a gallant 



11 

exploit at Hawarden Castle, on Palm Sunday, March 
22nd, 1282. He surprised the castle, put the garrison 
to the sword, and took prisoner Roger de Clifford, 
Justiciary of Chester. After this action, the brothers 
united their forces, took the castles of Flint and 
Rhuddlan, the only fortresses then in the possession 
of the English. The Welsh, rising in every quarter, 
were instantly in arms; and the national vengeance 
was carried on as far as the English borders. The 
king was made acquainted with this fresh outbreak, 
and the extent of the evil, at Devizes, where he Avas 
keeping Easter. It is said that, in the vehemence of 
his passion, he swore that nothing less than the entire 
subjugation of Llewelyn should henceforth satisfy him. 
He wrote to the two Archbishops, requiring them to 
excommunicate the Welsh Princes and their adherents, 
and to denounce the most terrible maledictions of the 
church against them. The effect of this cursing re- 
mained against Llewelyn even after his death, for he 
was refused christian burial. His body lay unburied 
for some time ; and the rite of interment was only 
granted after the corpse had received absolution from 
the Archbishop of Canterbury, upon the supposition 
that he had shewed signs of repentance, during his 
last moments, by asking for a priest. 

In 1282, Edward marched towards Chester; and, 
in June, took the castle of Hope, in Flintshire. He, 
however, made but little progress until the close of the 
year. The measures of Llewelyn were all well ar- 
ranged; and, although opposed against the powerful 
army of Edward, supported by Gaston de Bern, and 
other foreign auxiliaries, he was able to repel them for 
a considerable time. Of the difficulties and duration 
of this war, Edward seems to have had many doubts, 
so much so, that he removed the Barons of the Ex- 
chequer, and the Judges of the King's Bench, to hold 
their courts at Shrewsbury ; he also deputed the Arch- 
bishop of Canterbury to come into Wales, to intervene 



12 

his good offices, and to entreat Llewelyn to make an 
immediate surrender. The Prince's reply is worthy 
of record. He said, "that, as the guar4ian of the 
people's safety, his conscience al%ne should direct his 
submission ; nor would he consent to any compliance 
which might derogate from the dignity of his station." 
This memorable answer being repeated, Edward re- 
iterated his resolution to compel the Prince to submit 
without any conditions. 

During his negociations, Llewelyn was at his palace 
at Aber, a romantic old residence in front of a moun- 
tain pass, part of his army being stationed on Penmaen 
Mawr, a very high promontory, from which the ap- 
proach to Conway could be seen for many miles. This 
was always a very important and strong fortification, 
being capable of containing 20,000 men. Some of the 
walls were nine feet high and about seven feet thick : 
between these walls were innumerable small buildings, 
mostly circular, and regularly faced within and with- 
out ; and in most places the facings are still very per- 
fect, but all of dry work. It was inaccessible by its 
natural steepness toward the sea, consequently judi- 
ciously chosen to protect the passage into Anglesey, &c. 
This fortification is well worthy the attention of the 
traveller, both on account of its antiquities and beauty 
of prospect from the summit of the mountain. 

In November, 1282, Edward secured Conway, and 
stationed his army in advantageous situations; and 
by means of the vessels of the Cinque Ports secured 
Anglesey. He then endeavoured to pass the Menai 
Straits to obtain possession of the mountains ; and, to 
accomplish this, he made a bridge of boats, wide 
enough for sixty men to walk abreast. The Welsh, 
on the Carnarvon side, threw up vast intrenchments. 
Before the bridge was quite completed, a party of the 
English, some Gascon lords, and a body of Spanish 
troops, commanded by Luke de Tany, passed at low 
water : they were suffered to advance ; but, as soon 



13 

as the river had risen, the nearest body of the Welsh, 
commanded by Richard ab Walwyn, rushed from their 
position, and routed them with great slaughter. The 
general of the army, fifteen knights, thirty-two es- 
quires, and one thousand soldiers, are said to have thus 
perished in the Menai.^ 

Edward was thus constrained to return to his 
stronghold, the Castle of Rhuddlan; as, in the depth of 
winter, he had no chance of success. Neither was 
Llewelyn at all sanguine as to the result of his opera- 
tions ; not deeming himself sufficiently strong to as- 
sume the offensive. Leaving, therefore, his brother in 
possession of the Snowdon pass and camp, he, by a 
night march, eluded the enemy and gained the South ; 
he soon overran the territories of Cardigan and Strath 
Towi, and arrived in the territories of Buillt, where he 
held a conference with certain Lords of the Marches. 
Here he was secure from the southern quarter, but his 
anxiety was to secure the pass into the country by the 
north; he, therefore, posted his main army on a moun- 
tain near the Wye, and placed a body of troops at 
Pont Arewyn. Being thus secured from any fear of 
surprise, he entered the valley unarmed, and attended 
only by his squire, to meet several Lords. Immedi- 
ately after his departure. Sir Edward Mortimer, with 
a strong force, attacked the bridge, while Walwyn, a 
native of the country, pointed out to the enemy a 
passage a little lower down the river, called Cefn Twm 
Bach. Llewelyn, meanwhile, was waiting, in a small 
grove, about three miles from Buillt, where he had 
appointed an interview with his border chiefs : while 
wondering at their non-appearance, bis squire ran 
towards him, informing him that he heard a great cla- 
mour at the bridge. Before he could gain any certain 
information, the grove was surrounded by the enemy's 

* Near this spot, it is said, a castle was built by Aelodd, King of 
Dublin ; and here Suetonius landed his army, and Agricola passed ever 
into Ang-lesey, 



14 

horse. In attempting to escape, he was pursued by 
Adam de Francton, an English knight, who perceiv- 
ing him to be a Welshman, though ignorant of his 
quality, plunged a spear into his body, and left him 
for dead on the field. Alone and expiring, he con- 
tinued for about three hours, during which time the 
contest remained doubtful ; his followers, though not 
cheered by his presence, fought bravely, and although 
eventually conquered, it was not until two thousand 
were left dead upon the field. 

It is evident that in this instance, Llewelyn was 
betrayed, though by what means, or by whom, has 
never been ascertained ; for the storming of the bridge, 
and other movements, immediately upon his entering 
the valley, leave no doubt upon the subject. 

When Llewelyn was found, life was almost extinct, 
and he had scarcely strength to ask for a priest. On 
the approach of his opponents it was discovered, to the 
great joy of the English party, that the dying person 
was no other than the Prince of Wales. As soon as 
he expired, his head was cut off by Adam de Francton, 
and taken to the king, who was then at the Abbey of 
Conway. The place of this tragedy is called to this 
day Cwm Llewelyn. 

By fraud, by malice, and by force oppress'd, 

The best and bravest of our princes fell ; 
Gallant Llewelyn sinks to endless rest, 

And sighs to liberty a last farewell ! 

Thus died Llewelyn, on the 11th December, 1282, 
after a reign of thirty-six years, and in the eleventh 
of Edward I., leaving behind him only one daughter. 
With him died the Marchers of Wales, as Edward took 
the Principality into his own hands, gave it to his son, 
Edward II., and made him Prince of Wales. 

As soon as Edward received the head of Llewelyn, 
he directed it to be sent to London, commanding it to 
be placed upon the pillory in Cheapside. It was then 
fixed on the point of a spear and carried through the 



15 

streets by a horseman, and was afterwards placed on 
the highest turret of the Tower of London, where it 
remained for some tune. 

Heroic Prinne ! when o'er Carnarvon waved 

The crimson flag of conquest, and the pomp 

Of festal sports — when yon proud castle rung 

To Edward's triumph — thy insulted head, 

Gaze of vile crowds, stood on Augustus' tower, 

With ivy wreath and silver diadem 

Adorn'd, in mockery of Brutus old, 

And Merlin's mystic verse. SOTHEBY. 

Mr. Warrington says, in his History of Wales, "The 
historians of the times are silent respecting the cha- 
racter or the personal qualities of this prince, but the 
manner of his life was the best illustration of his con- 
duct. Had his valour, his talent, and his patriotism 
been exercised upon a more splendid theatre, or his 
every action not endeavoured to be buried in oblivion 
by his conqueror, and every monumental record tend- 
ing to preserve his memory, or perpetuate his fame and 
glory, left to decay by the vindictive spirit of policy, 
his name would have been recorded in the classic page, 
and his memory revered as an illustrious hero, and as a 
gallant assertor of the rights of nature." 

His countrymen, however, were not backward in. 
pouring their tears upon the tomb of their fallen sove- 
reign. An elegy, in Welsh, composed by his favourite 
bard, Gruffydd ab Ynad Coch, who lived in his Court, 
•in wild and plaintive notes, and with a seeming pro- 
phetic spirit, finely expresses their sorrow and despair. 
The substance of it will be found embodied in the fol- 
lowing beautiful poem, by a celebrated Welsh poet, Mr. 
Ebenezer Thomas, of Clynnog, composed by him, in 
English, expressly for this work, and which may serve 
as a specimen of the talent of the bards of Wales. 

Sing Muse ! of Edward, whom no art could foil, 
Who sacked our country and usurped our soil ; 
Caused martial deeds in Wallia's ears to rin^, 
Who prostrate fell before the warrior king*. 



16 



Sing of Llewelyn's deeds and brilliant fame, 
By name a " Lion" and by heart the same ; 
Like that brave ancestor who erst withstood 
Firm as a granite rock Rome's warlike flood ; 
Even Caractaeus, prince of high renown, 
Who fought the world to save the British Crown : 
For nine long years, he backward pushed his foes, 
And parried off proud Rome's imperial blows ! 
So rose Llewelyn, but not so his fate, 
Both fell, but one survived his victor's hate ; 
One in a Roman chain wore glory's wreath. 
The other languished in the chain of Death ! 

Thus sung his bard, who spoke the public mind,* 
" What woe and wailing float on every wind ? 
Such as in days of yore from Camlan rose, 
To indicate the triumph of our foes ! 
Deep furrowed cheeks, seem iike you mountain rills. 
So many streamlets which the tear befills ; 
Dire desolation! 'tis our Prince that fell. 
Even nature strives th'attendant woes to tell ! 
Majestic forests quail, and ocean sighs. 
The sun glares strangely through yon lurid skies ! 
The rolling planets vibrate with the shock. 
And night enshrouds Snowdonia's dreary rock ; 
In vain 1 call for vengeance on the foe, 
Who durst effect my country's overthrow ; 
In vain I look along these wilds, so dread ! 
For one green spot to rest my aching head ; 
There's not in Cambria's gory fields, a sod 
Which has not by the unhallowed foe been trod !" 

But though alas ! the Prince had fallen too low, 
To hear the plaudits of a generous foe. 
Or those thrill lays sung by his native bard. 
To him as leader of the vanquished guard. 
Though this he heard not, yet has he for praise 
Five centuries' accumulated lays. 
Which swell like ocean in o'erwhelming tide. 
Of native fondness and of native pride. 
Till bygone homage's undulating wave, 
Breaks forth in requiems o'er his hallowed grave. 

Sing of Carnarvon, where the bold Longshanks 
Stamped with his conquering foot on Menai's banks. 
His heart elate, his mighty spirit nigh, 
With martial prowess beaming from his eye, 
Here he conceived his castle-building plans. 
To overawe our oft-revolting clans. 
And to repel th' impetuous, desperate rush 
Of the brave nation which he sought to crush. 



* This refers to the bard's lament, by Griflith ab Ynad Coch. 



17 

Here sjjmmonetl he liis vassals at his will, 
To join to arms their architectural skill, 
Who round vast areas built the bastioned wall, 
To cover camps within the spacious hall. 
Then waved, Carnarvon, flags of regal pride 
From lofty towers, reflected in the tide 
Of wondering Menai, which had ne'er before, 
Huge images like these to waft ashore. 

Though Welsh dominions with Llewelyn fell, 
'Twas dawn of better days, as annals tell; 
For when smooth Wye saw native kingship close, 
Some prosperous dynasties on Menai rose. 
Long on whose banks the Eagle Tower shall stand 
As index to the history of our land. 

After the death of Llewelyn, his brother David, 
considering himself the sovereign of Wales, made an 
attempt to defend his country. The great depression 
of his countrymen, consequent upon the death of 
Llewelyn, and on their want of union and promptness, 
gave advantages to Edward, of which he quickly 
availed himself, and soon became master of the rugged 
defiles of the mountains. David was taken prisoner 
and confined in Rhuddlan Castle, and afterwards sent 
in chains to Shrewsbury, where he was tried, and 
doomed to die as a traitor. There was something sin- 
gular in the sentence pronounced against him ; he was 
condemned to four species of punishment, — to be drawn 
at the tail of a horse to the place of execution, to be 
hanged, his bowels to be burnt, his body to be quarterd 
and hung in different parts of the kingdom. This sen- 
tence, cruel in the extreme, was executed in all its 
severity. His head was afterwards sent to the Tower 
of London, and placed on a pole near the head of his 
brother Llewelyn. With the death of this unfortunate 
prince closed the sovereignty of Wales. The remarks 
of Mr. Warrington shall close this account of the con- 
quest of the country. 

"The fate of nations, distinguished only by misfor- 
tune, or only illustrious by conquest, may raise for a 
moment a sigh of pity, or the transient effusion of ap- 
plause. But a people like the Welsh, satisfied with 



18 

their mountains, who had been forced into a long and 
unequal contest, in defence of their native rights, with 
few other resources than their valour and a fond attach- 
ment to their liberties, though falling in the ruins of 
their country, will have a claim on the esteem, and 
excite the admiration of the world, as long as manly 
sentiment and freedom shall remain." 

Upon the death of Llewelyn and David, Edward 
immediately took measures to secure the conquest 
obtained, before the Welsh could arouse themselves 
out of the state of insensibility into which they had 
sunk. He then commanded, from Conway, the seve- 
ral Marches of South Wales to provide victuals for the 
support of his army. 

The country being thus subdued, as a check to any 
further incursions, Edward built the Castles of Carnar- 
von and Conway, and repaired the churches that had 
been damaged in the late wars ; with a view to con- 
ciliate the Welsh clergy, he redressed their greivances ; 
and, as a reward to the English nobility who had 
served him in the late war, he gave the Lordship of 
Denbigh to the Earl of Lincoln, and the Lordship of 
Ruthin to - the Lord Reginald de Grey ; he also gave 
estates to many other of the English Barons. He 
likewise erected Carnarvon and other towns into cor- 
porations, endowing them with great privileges, to 
encourage trade ; and, in order to allure the Welsh 
from their mountains and wilder habits into a more 
social manner of living, he divided North Wales into 
Counties, appointed Sheriffs, Coroners, &c., and County 
Sheriffs' Courts. Edward also took up his residence 
at the Castle of Rhuddlan, and issued a proclamation 
to all the inhabitants of Wales, that he would receive 
them under his protection ; and thence he issued a code 
of laws, called the " Statutes of Rhuddlan." He re- 
duced also the rents of the inhabitants considerably. 

As a judicious warrior, Edward saw the necessity of 
maintaining the position and power he had obtained ; 



19 

and, therefore, caused the castles of Carnarvon and 
Conway to be erected Two more ehgible spots could 
not, perhaps, have been selected, as then' position was 
admirably adapted for the purpose intended. Carnar- 
von Castle was commenced in the beginning of the year 
1283, and, was built upon a rock. It is not certain how 
long a time was taken in its erection ; some assert it 
was built in about two years, while others say it occu- 
pied twelve years ; but it has recently been discovered 
that it was building during a space of near forty years. 
That it was built at various periods may easily be seen, 
by observing the difference in the masonry on the 
external side, it must, however, have progressed to 
a very great extent in the space of a year and a half, 
for the Queen was confined, in the Eagle Tower, in 
April, 1284. It might have been left for many years 
unfinished, if indeed it was ever properly completed, 
owing to the various small outbreaks that occurred. 
The pubHc records show that it was repaired and en- 
larged in the reign of Edward II. Whatever time 
was taken in its erection, one thing is certain, that the 
task fell upon the inhabitants, and the labour of the 
peasants was demanded for the work. 

Henry EUerton, or de EUerton, was the architect 
and master-mason of the castle, and must have been a 
very superior architect in his time ; no doubt he had 
several skilful assistants, as a more beautiful edifice, of 
its size and kind, has never been erected. The outer 
walls are of a dark grey stone, with an edging of red 
ones round the windows ; many of the materials were 
brought from Segontium, the limestone from Twr 
Celyn, in Anglesey, and the gritstone, from Vaynol, 
in this county, by means of the Menai Straits. 

The walls still retain much of the character that they 
had in the time of Edward, and were built, as was cus- 
tomary in those days, by means of a kind of liquid 
cement, instead of with mortar, as in the present day. 
It has never been exactly ascertained what was the 



20 

kind of liquid used ; it was something that became very 
hard in a short space of time. It is supposed that the 
inner and outer walls were duly erected in proper order, 
and the middle part filled up at random with loose 
stones, and then the liquid poured in, which permeated 
the whole, and filling up all the crevices, cemented it 
together in one solid mass. There is no doubt that 
much time w^as saved by this process, which may 
account in some degree for the brief period in which the 
castle is said to have been erected. The walls, upon 
the average, are about 7 feet 9 inches thick. 

The entrance into the castle is very august, being 
beneath a great tower, in the front of which appears a 
statue of the founder, with a half- drawn sword in his 
hand, either as if menacing his newly-acquired subjects,, 
or as sheathing his sword, indicating that peace was 
restored. 

Where ! ye now astonished cry — 
Where does mighty Edward lie ; 
He that gave these ramparts birth, 
When prostrate Cambria leaned on earth ? 
Here still his image, raised on high, 
Attracts the thoughtful, curious, eye ; 
But he, long humbled, from a throne, 
Lies far beneath a massy stone.* 

The gate had four portcullisses and every requisite 
of strength, having inner as well as outer doors ; the 
inner doors were made of iron, and could be raised and 
lowered at pleasure. The entrance, inside^ is very 
beautiful ; and the huge irons, on which the hinges of 
the door rested, are plainly to be seen. The court j 
according to present^ appearance, is oblong, but in for- 
mer days it must have been divided, as there are evident 
traces of its having been so by means of gates or other- 
wise ; there appear, also, many arches, walls^ &c., com- 
menced, which, in all probability, were never completed. 
It is asserted, but with what truth cannot now be 

*Sir Davydd Trevor, Rector of Llanallgo, 1840. 



21 

ascertained, that tlie part next the Eagle Tower ^r^>^ 
the place of tournament, whilst the upper part was 
the grand keep, the foundation of which is buried 
by the soil in the elevated part of the ground. 

The towers are very beautiful and vary in form ; 
some being pentagonal, others hexagonal, and octa- 
gonal. The Eagle Tower is decidedly the finest and 
more lofty than the restj and has the addition of three 
angular turrets issuing fi'om the top, with eagles 
thereon, which are supposed to be RomaUj and 
whence it takes its name. 

The Eagle Tower may be easily ascended, as the' 
stone steps are all perfect up to the top. To the 
curious in these matters we may state, that there are 
158 steps to the top of this tower ; it is^ however^ 
unfortunately the only tower in the castle that is 
perfect. The top of two of the turrets cannot be 
reached without climbing, and much danger, requiring 
more nerve than is, perhaps, possessed by the majority 
of visitors to the castle. No person, however, should 
omit ascending the Eagle Tower, as the scene from 
the top will amply repay the exertion. The view of 
Snowdon, and the other mountains, and the Irish 
Channel and surrounding scenery, is most magni- 
ficent. 

A short distance up the Eagle Tower, and deviating 
from the regular steps, leads you along a narrow 
winding passage to the room, said to be the one in 
which the Prince of Wales was born, 25th April, 
1284 ; it is a dark room, about 12 feet long and 8 feet 
broad. Pennant says, in speaking of this apartment, 
that royalty in those days did not consult either pomp 
or convenience. In all probability this room was iiot 
the worst place in which Queen Eleanor was located 
in her travels with her husband. It was made as 
convenient as possible, being hung with tapestry, 
which was first introduced into England by Queen 
Eleanor, and traces of its suspension are still apparent 

c 2 



22 

in the room. If was, also, a very secure place, apart 
from all noise and tumult, and could only be reached 
by those acquamted with the castle. The room, in the 
present day, is rendered sufficiently notorious by the 
various and numerous initials and names which now 
almost completely cover its walls. 

The Eagle Tower is very extensive, and its walls are 
two feet thicker than the other parts of the castle. It 
had a pretty entrance from the water side, the door 
of which is still in existence. The tower is a noble 
one, containing many curious places of antiquity, and 
must formerly have consisted of many apartments ; 
four stories are distinctly to be seen, as the numerous 
fire-places and chimney-pieces clearly indicate. The 
floorings were formed over an arch, covered with 
concrete, and strewn over with rushes. This tower, 
like other parts of the castle, has suffered fi'om the 
lapse of ages and the ravages of the times ; and, at 
some period during the various wars, must have been 
burnt, as the flooring and roofing are all consumed ; 
there are still, however, left in it traces of a regularity 
and a grandeur which other parts of the castle do not 
appear to have possessed. 

The large square building on the west side, close to 
the Eagle Tower, appears to have comprised the state 
apartments, and has a superior front, with spacious 
Vt^ndows, very elegant for the times. Some have sup- 
posed it to have been the chapel ; that, however, is 
not likely, as the chapel, in connection with the gar- 
rison, was in the middle of the town. It has a long 
gallery leading to it, the finest and most perfect in 
the castle, of which about 70 yards is entire. 

The Queen's, or Eleanor's Gate, at the upper end 
of the castle, opposite the Eagle Tower, is so called 
from the circumstance of Queen Eleanor having en- 
tered by that way. It may appear in these days, 
according to the great depth of the ground, as if no 
entrance could have been effected that vv^av. It must, 



23 

however, be borne in mind that the ground opposite 
the Green Gate was formerly very high, and a very 
high bank existed opposite the Queen's Gate, upon 
which the drawbridge was let down. That it was a 
regular entrance, and used as such, is evident from the 
fact of the now existing traces of portcuUisses, double- 
gates, &c., which are as discernable as are those of the 
other gateway. The entrance by the Queen's Gate 
is very pretty and commanding from the outside ; the 
inside, owing to the high bank opposite, loses much 
of its grandeur. 

The walls of the castle are everywhere very thick, 
and have within their thickness a most convenient 
gallery, with narrow slits for the discharge of arrows, 
and these slits are so constructed, widening to the 
inside, that several parties might discharge then' 
arrows from them in succession, aiming at the enemy, 
whilst their opponents could only endeavour to hit 
the narrow slits ; and should the arrow be so directed 
as to pass through the aperture, it could only strike 
the opposite wall, whilst those within could take deli- 
berate aim. 

The dungeons of the castle must have been nume- 
rous ; there are several now to be seen. The largest 
is on the east side, of great depth, in a tower between 
the Gateway and the Queen's Gate ; this is supposed 
to have been the principal one, or w^orst of its kind. 
It has been conjectured, but with what truth is uncer- 
tain, that there was formerly a subterranean passage 
under ground from the castle to the Coed Helen wood 
opposite. The only person of note said to have been 
confined in the castle was Mr. Prynne, a barrister and 
antiquarian, in the reign of Charles I. The castle 
was well supplied with water, conveyed by means of 
leaden pipes, admirably arranged at the time of build- 
ing, grooves being made in the walls for the pipes to 
pass through, which are still to be seen, the leaden 



24 

pipes shewing themselves very plainly on the eastern 
side, between the Gateway and the Eagle Tower, 
coming through the walls, and in this place depo- 
siting the water into a large stone cistern outside ; there 
are also traces inside, close by, of a deep place like a 
well, which has every appearance of having been used 
for that purpose, as there are steps leading down to it. 
Adjacent, on the outside, has been recently discovered a 
well, neatly built and rounded, which is now uncovered, 
and may be plainly seen. 

The first Governor of the Castle w^as John de Ha- 
vering, with a salary of 200 marks, for which he was 
obliged to maintain constantly, beside his own family, 
four score men, of which fifteen were to be cross 
bowmen, one chaplain, one surgeon, and one smith ; 
the rest were to do the duty of keepers of the gates, 
sentinels, &c. In 1284 Sir Roger de Puleston was 
constable, and in 1289 Adam de Wetenhall was 
appointed governor, and afterwards Sir Rowland Brit- 
tagne, The Constable of the Castle had sometimes 60/., 
^,nd at other times only 40Z. 

The Captain of Town had 12?. 3^. 4d, for his annual 
fee, but this office was sometimes annexed to the for- 
mer, and then the fee was 60Z. for both. The constable 
and the captain had 24 soldiers for the defence of the 
place, at the T^ages of 4c?. per day, amounting to 146Z. 
per year; this small number of soldiers could only have 
been for use during peace^-ble times. 

The Porter of the Gates, had an annual fee of 3/. 1 0^. 
In connection with these offices there were others paid 
at Carnarvon, as connected with the town, &c. 

The two Justices of North Wales, 60/. each. 

The Chamberlain of North Wales, 20Z, 

The Auditor pf INorth Wales, lOZ. 

Comptroller of Pleas, Fines, &e., 12Z. I3s, 4cZ. 

Attorney -General for Carnarvonshire, Merionethshire, 
|iind Anglesey, 2Z. I6s, 8d, 



25 

The Surveyor of Castles, 10/, 

Chief Forester of Snowdon, IIZ. 8s, 

Marshal and Keeper of the Justice House in Car- 
narvon, 21. 6s. 8d. 

Steward of the Town of Newborough, 101, 

Prothonotary, 3/. 6s. 8c?, 

Baron of the Exchequer of Carnarvon, 1 3/. 6^. 8rf., 
and for the attendance at Carnarvon yearly, 21. 

There was a Court of Exchequer of the Prince's 
Revenues for North Wales, holden formerly in Car- 
narvon Castle, with fees, &c., allowed for the office. 

The castle had natural requisites for strength, having 
the sea on one side, and being surrounded by a deep 
moat, and the estuary of the River Seiont. The situ- 
ation, in many respects, was admirably adapted for the 
purpose. Although the Welsh were conquered, they 
were not subdued, and numerous were the outbreaks 
that continually took place. Edward, with the ability 
of a judicious warrior, perceived that something more 
was wanting to complete his power, as the Welsh were 
not willing to be governed by any but a chieftain of 
their own country. It was therefore on the ground of 
policy, and with a view of conciliating the Welsh peo- 
ple, that Queen Eleanor was sent for to Carnarvon 
Castle to give birth to a native prince. Great sacrifice 
of personal feeling for the safety of his Queen was made 
on this occasion, as it is asserted that she travelled in 
the very depth of winter; and, when residing in the 
castle, had not the assistance and support of her liege 
lord, as he was engaged in other parts of Wales. 

The Queen was delivered of a son, on the 25th of 
April, 1284, and the infant was styled Edward, first 
Prince of Wales, of the English line. Edward was at 
that time at the castle of Rhuddlan, and the news of 
the event was conveyed to him by Grifiith Llwyd, of 
Tregarnedd, in Anglesey; for this service he was 
knighted, and one of the manors of the Welsh Princes 
called Llys Dinorwic, bestowed upon him. 



26 

On receiving this news the King was overjoyed, and 
immediately commanded the attendance of the Welsh 
chieftains, who had been previously summoned to 
Rhuddlan Castle. He told them, that as they had 
frequently desired he would appoint them a sovereign, 
a native of Wales, he would now indulge them in 
their request, provided they promised obedience to 
the person he should name. They assented to the 
terms he proposed. He then informed them, that 
their intended Prince was born in their own country, 
that he could not speak a word of English, and that 
his life was fi^ee from every stain ; that their future 
Prince was his own son, Edward, born in the castle of 
Carnarvon a few days before. Although the infant 
was styled Prince of Wales, he was not created so for 
years afterwards. 

The infant was baptised by iEnian, Bishop of Ban- 
gor ; and, to perpetuate the remembrance of this office, 
Edward bestowed uj)on the prelate, and his successors 
for ever, the ferries of Borthwen and Cadnant, two 
manors in the County of Anglesey, &c. The Queen, 
on this occasion, shewed her good sense by complying 
with the prejudices of the country, in having a Welsh 
nurse, of the name of Mary ; and there is an entry in 
the household book of Edw^ard II. of 20 shillings, which 
the King presented to her for coming from Carnarvon 
to London to see him. 

Queen Eleanor was the first who used tapestry in 
England, and certainly it was never more needed than 
in the dreary rooms of the castle. 

Sometime after her confinement the Queen removed 
to Conway Castle, w^here were assembled more persons 
suitable to her station ; and many traces of her abode 
at Conway still exist. Edw^ard, however, made the 
castle of Carnarvon his residence, with his Queen, for 
a considerable time, and held his courts there, and as- 
sembled his knights and barons to join him. 

While contemplating these ruins reflection is aroused, 



27 

for doubtless every tower lias its history, and every 
dungeon its woes, and the scene of many bloody en- 
counters is brought to remembrance. The imagination 
calls up to view the various successive aspirants w^ho 
have fought for the love of power, and encamped their 
armies around these venerable ruins. Alas ! all for the 
spirit of ambition ! pursuing objects perishable at best 
in a very few years, and maintained at the expense of 
the happiness of millions of our fellow subjects. How 
often have these walls rung w^ith the merriment of song, 
and the enchantment of the harp. The noblest of the 
land have often assembled within this stronghold, and 
their far-famed daughters have mingled in the revelry 
and the dance ; but how soon have these kind ties been 
rent asunder by the wars and tumults that arose, and 
the outrages that succeeded, showing how hollow, vain, 
and ambitious was the spirit of those times, and the 
fleeting tenure of human enjoyments. 

While the castle was being erected, the tow^n of 
Carnarvon was also enclosed within walls, fortified, 
and made a place of greater security. The walls of 
the town present much the same appearance as they 
did in the time of Edward ; they are very entire, 
and are defended by numbers of round towers. No 
traces of their particular use remain, as they have 
long since been converted to modern purposes. One 
is now part of the Gaol, others form the Baths and 
Billiard-room, and the Vestry of St. Mary's Church, 
whilst some are used as private residences. 

The walls were built remarkably strong, having 
large arches, at convenient distances, for then* sup- 
port. Several of them may now be seen on the pro- 
menade quay. There was a walk all round the town 
on the top ^of the walls ; only some parts are now 
perfect, and the only part available for the public is 
by the Town Church ; the rest of the walls have be- 
come private property. There were three principal 
entrances, one from the sea at Forth yr Aur, and 



28 

two from the moimtain side, viz., Porth Mawr and 
the Green Gate, there was also a smaller one to the 
water side, by the Eagle Tower. These entrances 
were all well guarded by strong iron gates, having 
inner and outer doors, the same as the entrance to 
the castle ; the grooves and hinges are still to be seen. 
The walls were enclosed all round, having no en- 
trances but those mentioned, and were connected 
with the castle at Penditch. That part of the wall 
fell about 70 years ago, having been undermined, and 
otherwise injured. Before that time the only entrance 
into the town at that part was the Green Gate, from 
which the street close by takes its name. The gate is 
now closed up from Greengate-street, but may be seen 
from Hole-in-the-wall-street, which is only partly closed. 
This was a more lofty entrance than the others, and 
should be pointed out to strangers, as it is now interest- 
ing, some persons having doubted the connection of the 
walls with the castle, and there being no trace of them 
now remaining. The wall, however, existed in the me- 
mory of some persons now living; and the Green Gate 
could have answered no purpose if Penditch had been 
open as it now is. 

There was a long flight of steps to the top of the 
walls at this part, from the inside, which the sloping 
decayed wall now shows. A moat surrounded the 
castle and the tow^n walls. Some parts of the dry ditch 
have not many years been filled up. 

There were several houses or palaces of antiquity 
within the walls, most of which are either pulled down, 
or modernised in accordance with the taste of the pre- 
sent age. One very large building in Palace-street, 
known by the name of Plas Mawr, or the Large 
Palace, belonged to Wm. Griffith, Esq., a branch of 
the Vaynol and Penrhyn families, and Chamberlain 
of North Wales. There is a handsome monument 
in Llanbeblig Church to his memory. Over the door 
of the house were the following initials : — W. G. M. G. 



29 

In another part, J. G. M. G. : date, 1590. It 
contained a great number of rooms, some of them 
maintaining an appearance of grandeur. For many 
years, previous to its being pulled down, it was in- 
habited by various poor families and small tradesmen, 
and was very much out of repair. In 1830 it was 
pulled down, and the present spacious Market Hall 
erected on the site. Plas Puleston (the present Red 
Lion) in Palace-street, was formerly the residence of 
Sir Roger de Puleston, who was its first owner, and a 
distinguished favourite of Edward I. It is uncertain 
what office he held in Carnarvon, besides Constable of 
the Castle ; but he was Sheriff and Keeper of the 
County of Anglesey, and Sheriff of Carnarvonshire, 
with a yearly salary of 40Z., in 1284. He was after- 
wards appointed to levy the subsidy for the French 
war, viz., a fifteenth of all moveables, a tax quite 
new to the Welsh, and resisted by them. This tax 
became so obnoxious that they took up arms, and 
hanged Sir Roger and several of his people fi-om the 
loop holes of the castle, in 1294, and afterwards cut off 
his head. 

At Porth yr A ur there was a very ancient mansion 
inhabited by Edmund Griffith, of Penrhyn, whose 
sister, Agnes, was married to Sir Rowland Brittaiiye, 
Constable of Carnarvon Castle. It occupied a large 
space of ground, and was the property of the Lloyds, 
of Maes y Porth. The great bulk of it is now pulled 
down, and its site converted into a slate yard. There 
are many traces of its antiquity, of its old door 
ways, &c. 

Plas Isa was another ancient residence, belonging 
to the Coed Helen family : Plas Bowman and Plas 
Llanwnda, also, in Castle-street, long the residence of 
Richard Garnons, Esq. 

Glanrafon is a very old house in Castle-street, noted 
for having an old building behind it, which w^as a 
chapel, probably, in connection with the garrison. It 



so 

must, also, have been a burying place, as several hu- 
man bones were discovered in digging the foundation 
of the houses in connection with it. One of the houses 
erected on the site has now an eaicient mutilated figure 
in front. 

Plas Spicer, in Church-street, is another, belonging 
to a gentleman of that name, who held an office in the 
Exchequer, of 50/. per annum. His daughter-in-law 
married Meredith ap levan ap Robert, Cesail Gy- 
farch, ancestor of Sir John Wynne, who was born at 
Crug, near Carnarvon, and was a Justice of the 
Peace, in the first commission after the new ordinance 
of Wales. 

It may be proper to mention, that every large house 
was formerly designated Plas or Palace ; there were 
but few, and all of them inhabited by families of dis- 
tinction, w^ho kept a free and open house, which was 
the usual custom in those days. 

The Old Town Hall was a very old-fashioned build- 
ing ; it was out of repair for many years, and quite 
unfit for use ; it was, eventually, pulled down, and the 
present meat market erected in its stead. 

The Pentice Court was formerly in a large house at 
the foot of the present Pen rallt, and at the top of 
Turf-square. The square is known to this day by the 
name of Pendist, a corruption of the word Pentice. 
The name of Turf-square is but of modern date, so 
called in consequence of its being formerly the place 
where turf was deposited in heaps and sold. 

The Exchequer Office was, where the present Town 
Hall is, over Perth Mawr. It was rebuilt in the year 
1767, and converted into a Town Hall at the joint 
expense of Sir W. Wynne and Sir John Wynne, 
Barts. It was at one time occupied by the Escheator 
of North Wales. The Prothonotary and Clerk of the 
Peace Offices were, formerly, (next the County Hall,) 
part of the building:, being composed of the Old Town 
Walls. 



31 

There were ten streets within the walls, of which 
High-street was the principal, and always contained 
the handsomest shops. 

During the time the castle was erecting, and while 
the town was being fortified, Edward took occasion to 
gratify his nobility, and to amuse or flatter his new 
subjects, by holding a Round Table, in imitation of 
King Arthur. This festival was first commenced on 
the mountains of Snowdon, and, afterwards, adjourned 
to Nefyn, a large plain in former days, but now a re- 
spectable sea-port village, twenty miles from Carnar- 
von, in the neighbourhood of Pwllheli. The company 
was large and distinguished ; for not only the chief 
nobility of England, but numbers from foreign parts, 
graced the festival with their presence. It lasted se- 
veral days, with dance and tournament. This diver- 
sion being ended, Edward made a progress through 
Cardigan, to settle the affairs of South Wales ; thence 
he returned to London, after an absence of nearly 
three years. 

On the 8th September, 1286, a charter was granted, 
at Flint, to the Borough of Carnarvon, and endowed 
with great privileges. 

It enacted, that " our men of the town" should be 
free burgesses ; that the Constable of the Castle be 
Mayor ; and that two Bailiffs be elected from among* 
the burgesses on the feast of St. Michael's, yearly. 

That the burge-ses shall have their free prison in 
the town, and not be subject to the county or gaol 
prison in the castle, except in cases of murder, and not 
then if they can find sufficient bail. 

That the borough land be free from warren and fo- 
rest laws, and that no one but a burgess trade in the 
town, and that the Sheriffs of the County have no 
power to arrest. 

That they shall have a Guild Hall, with a Hanse,^' 

* A Society of Merchants, endowed with many large privileg^es. 



32 

and that if any villain of any one, shall have remained 
in the town, and held land, and paid scott and lott 
with the same men during one year and a day, without 
challenge, thenceforth he shall not be demanded again 
by his lord, but remain a free man in the same 
town ; and that no burgesses shall be convicted by 
any stranger, for offences laid against them, in the 
County of Carnarvon, that is, from the waters of the 
Conway to the waters of the Dovey, nor arrested for 
debt. 

It was also enacted that the same burgesses shall 
have soc and sac, toll, and theame, and infanthefe, and 
that they be free throughout all our dominions, as w^ell 
in England as elsewhere, of toll, lastage, and passage, 
murage, pontage, and from stallage, danegeld,"^ and all 
other customs and exaction. 

That their estate, dying intestate, be not confiscated, 
but their heirs to have the same. 

On the death of Alphonso, the eldest son of King 
Edward, 1284, the young prince Edward became heir 
to the English crown. When this fact became known 
to the Welsh, it appears to have severed the connect- 
ing link that bound them together ; and the motiye 

* 1. Soc. — A liberty of Jurisdictiou, with power of holding a Court of 
Tenants, whose Tenure is called Socage, 

2. Sac. — A Royalty or Privilege touching a Plea or Correction of Tres- 
passes within a Manor. 

3. Toll. — Firstly, Liberty to buy and sell within the precincts of a 
Manor. Secondly, a Tribute or Custom paid for Passage, &c. &c. 

4. Theame. — A Royalty granted by the King's Charter, to the Lord of 
a Manor for the serving, restraining, and judging Bondmen, &c. &c. 

5. Infanthefe. — A Privilege or Liberty granted to Lords of certain 
Manors to judge any Thief taken within their Fee. 

6. Passage. — Hire that a man pays for being transported over Sea or 
over any River. 

7. Murage. — Toll levied for the building or repairing of Public Walls. 

8. Pontage. — A Contribution towards the maintenance or re-edifying 
Bridges. 

9. Stallage. — Money paid for pitching Stalls in Fairs and Markets, or 
the right of doing so. 

10. Danegeld. — A Tribute laid on our Saxon Ancestors by the Danes, 
of 12 pence upon every Hide of Land. 



33 

for union having ceased, every part of the newly sub- 
dued state again fell into disorder ; several small 
outbreaks ensued, the principal one under Rhys ab 
Meredydd, w^ho was successful for a time, taking the 
castles of Llandovery and Dynevwr, and setting fire 
to several towns. This war was prolonged about five 
years, when Rhys was taken prisoner, and executed at 
York. 

After the termination of this war, Edward made an 
experiment of taxation on his new subjects, and ap- 
pointed Roger de Puleston to collect a fifteenth of 
their moveables. The spirit of the Welsh was set 
on fire wherever this tax was attempted to be enforced. 
Three insurrections sprang up in Wales in consequence^ 
and nearly at the same time, one under Maelgwm 
Vychan, at Pembroke and Cardigan, and at Gla- 
morgan, under a chieftain of the name of Morgan, in 
North Wales. The insurrection w^as headed by Madoc, 
an illegitimate son of Llewelyn, in 1294, w^ho had as- 
sumed the title of prince. The revolt opened with acts, 
marking the deeply exasperated spirit of the Welsh, — 
Sir Roger was seized and executed, with several of 
his associates, at Carnarvon Castle ; and, on the occa- 
sion of a great fair at Carnarvon, Madoc rushed 
upon the English, who were unarmed, and they were 
all inhumanly slaughtered ; the town was plundered 
and set on fire, and the castle taken ; the fortress of 
Snowdon was also secured, and possession of Anglesey 
gained. 

In all probability Carnarvon Castle suffered con- 
siderably at this time, if not partly burnt in connec- 
tion with the town. The vindictive spirit of the 
Welsh would be likely to revenge itself on a building 
erected for the sole purpose of maintaining the English 
power. 

This widely spread insurrection caused the King of 
England to recall his forces, intended to embark for 



34 

the continent, and depute the Earl of Denbigh to 
advance before him into Wales. This nobleman, while 
advancing under the walls of the castle of Denbigh, 
was suddenly encountered by the Welsh, who, en- 
couraged by the situation of the English army, were 
desu'ous of hazarding their fortunes upon the issue of 
a single battle. The event was glorious to the Welsh; 
the English forces were defeated and obliged to retire. 
On hearing of the defeat, Edward instantly marched 
to Conway, and, retiring into the castle, waited the 
remainder of his army. In his passage, he lost many 
waggons, loaded with victuals, which had been inter- 
cepted by the Welsh, and a sudden rise in the Conway 
prevented his troops passing that river. He was there- 
fore reduced to great want of provisions, and sur- 
rounded on ever)^ side by water and the enemy. The 
distress of the garrison was so great, with respect to 
provisions, that Edward, in common with the soldiers, 
was obliged to eat salted meat and the coarse bread 
that was found in the castle, and to use water for his 
drink mixed with honey. Only one single flagon of 
wine remained in the fortress, which the King or- 
dered to be mixed with water, and distributed among 
the garrison, declaring, with a manly spirit, that in 
time of necessity all things should be common. Ed- 
ward's good fortune, however, attended him; the Con- 
way suddenly subsiding, his forces were enabled to 
cross the water and come to his relief. The Welsh 
then abandoned the siege, and the English King passed 
the Christmas holidays without molestation in • the 
castle of Conway. 

Edward, afterwards, crossed over the Menai into 
Anglesey, and erected the castle of Beaumaris, as a 
check to the natives of that island. At this time 
Madoc had retired into a place of security. Ed- 
ward laid the country more open by cutting roads 
through the woods ; and, having severely punished 



35 

those persons who had been concerned in the murder 
of Roger de Puleston, he retired with his army into 
England, 

After the departure of Edward, Madoc invaded the 
English border, and, in an engagement on Mynydd 
DigoU, near Montgomery, he was defeated and taken 
prisoner. He was immediately sent to London and 
doomed, by Edward, to perpetual imprisonment in the 
Tower. 

On this disaster, all the Welsh chieftains laid down 
their arms and submitted to the English monarch, 
whose conduct on this occasion was politic, and tem- 
pered with lenity. No victim was sacrificed to the 
severity of his justice ; he gave to the heirs of the 
rebellious chieftains their forfeited estates, requiring 
only a compensation for the damages which he had 
sustained in the war, with an assurance, also, of im- 
plicit obedience for the future. He, however, assured 
them that should they again revolt, he would entirely 
exterminate their nation. Several of the nobility were 
sent as hostages, and were confined in the Tower of 
London. There now appears to have been peace in 
Wales for about seventeen years, until Sir Gruffydd 
Llwyd, indignant at the oppression and suflerings of 
his countrymen, commenced a revolt; he took up 
arms, and for a while over-ran the country. He was, 
however, at length subdued, taken prisoner, and 
after being confined some time at Rhuddlan, was 
beheaded. 

The country after this event seems to have been in 
quiet possession of the English for about eighty-three 
years, until the rebellion of Owain Glyndwr, a de- 
scendant of Llewelyn the Great, by Eleanor his 
daughter, which commenced in 1400, and was the last 
popular effort the Welsh made to recover the freedom 
they had lost. Owain was educated for the lawj but 
soon quitted it, and engaged in the tumults that 
agitated his country in the reign of Richard II. He 



36 

was married to Margaret, daughter of Sir David 
Hanmer, He was devotedly attached to the king, 
was created a knight, appointed scutiger of the body 
to that monarch, and was taken prisoner with him in 
Flint Castle. 

During the reign of Richard II., Lord Reginald 
Grey de Ruthin had taken possession and claimed the 
hills on his side of the river, although they had long 
been the property of the Glyndwr family. This un- 
just seizure produced a suit^ in which Owain obtained a 
restitution of his lands, and Lord Grey became his most 
inveterate enemy. On the ascension of Henry IV., 
Grey again seized the lands which had been awarded 
to Owain, and went as far as to misrepresent him as 
against his sovereign, when he was to have accom- 
panied him against the Scots. Grey represented his 
absence as an act of wilful disobedience, and by these 
base means obtained his lands, and at the same time 
caused him to be proclaimed a traitor. This caused 
the outbreak of Glyndwr, and his first assault was 
through the territories of Lord Grey. He soon re- 
covered the lands he had lost, and also took posses- 
sion of a portion of the lands of his enemy. Ambi- 
tion now ruled the mind of the infuriated chieftain, 
and he laid claim to the throne of Wales, and caused 
himself to be proclaimed Prince of Wales, 20th Sep- 
tember, 1400. 

Henry marched in person to repress the revolt with 
a formidable body of troops ; but Glyndwr, whose 
forces were not sufficiently powerful, retreated to the 
hills of Snowdon, and the English king was com- 
pelled to return to England without obtaining any 
material advantage. 

On the 30th November, 1400, the king issued a 
proclamation, offering to take under his protection, all 
Welshmen who would repair to Chester and submit to 
his son, Henry, Prince of Wales. Few, however, 
availed themseltes of his clemency. 



3^ 

In 1401, Olyndwr marched with a good army and 
stationed himself in Penlimmon, and was nearly de- 
feated. His remarkable conflict against the Flemings, 
at this period, was successful. The victory obtained 
by his military abilities added greatly to his reputation. 
Henry commenced a second attack in person, but was 
obliged to make a disgraceful retreat. 

In 1402, Lord Grey raised a powerful army, and 
encountered Glyndw^r, but was defeated and made 
prisoner, and afterwards liberated on payment of ten 
thousand marks, w^iich sum w^as paid by the king, 
with whom he was a great favourite. 

In 1402, Carnarvon Castle and Town were in the 
charg-i of levan ab Meredydd, and Meredydd ab 
Hwlkin Llvvyd, of Glynllifon, under an English 
Captain. 

There w^ere many severe contests in 1403, in w^hich 
Owain w^as generally successful, and in particular iu 
the one over Sir Edward Mortimer. This Knight 
afterwards joined Glyndwr, and they in concert me- 
ditated a claim to the Crown of England : so confident 
were they of success, that they went so far as to make 
a division of the country between them, to prevent any 
after dispute. 

In- 1403 the castles of Wales w^ere all in possession 
of Henry IV., and the castle of Carnarvon and 
Snowdon were confided to Sir John Chandos. 

In 1404 Glyndwr formed a league with Charles of 
France, and re-possessed himself of several of the 
castles, but did not succeed in obtaining possession of 
Carnarvon Castle, as it was bravely defended by levan 
ab Meredydd, and Meredydd ab Hwlkin Llwyd, of 
Glynllifon, and Sir John Chandos. It was blockaded 
for a considerable time; but Owain, finding all his 
efforts to take the castle fruitless, gave up the attempt, 
and moved his army to another part of the country.. 
During the siege levan died in the castle, and his 
body was conveyed out bv some private entrance^ and 

D 2 



38 I 

taken by sea to be buried in his parish church of Llan- 
fihangel, near Tremadoc. 

In 1405 fortune seemed to frown upon Glyndwr, 
and although he was not totally defeated, he suffered 
greatly, his son and brother Tewdur were slain, and 
he was obliged to conceal himself in a cave, between 
Conway and Abergele, known by the name of Owain's 
Cave to this day. He would have been totally defeated 
but for the assistance of Charles of France, whose 
forces prolonged the war. 

From 1405 to 1409 no particular conflicts ensued, 
only that the power of Glyndwr seemed to dechne. 
His attempts at war from this time were not worthy 
of any historic notice, as his followers deserted him, 
and he w^as obliged to confine himself to the hills, and 
act entirely on the defensive, This state of things 
lasted for three or four years. In 1415 the King 
deemed it prudent to propose terms for a cessation of 
hostilities, and a treaty to this effect was concluded 
a short time before the death of Glyndwr, on the 20th 
September of that year, and was afterwards ratified on 
the 24th February, 1416, with his son Sir Meredydd. 

Owain was bold and brave, and possessed no small 
portion of military skill ; his gallant spirit, undaunted 
and unsubdued to the last, achieved glorious exploits ; 
he was, however, deeply embued with the superstitions 
of his time. His exulting boast to Hotspur, that he 
could "call spirits from the vasty deep," is a grand 
display of supernatural feeling. 

Shakespeare has some beautiful lines on his 
nativity : — 

The front of heaven was full of fiery shapes ; 
The goats ran from the mountains, and the herds 
"Were strangely clamorous in the frighted fields. 
These signs have marked me extraordinary, 
And all the courses of my life do show 
I am not in the roll of commdn men. 

The death of Owain closed the hostilities between 



39 

Wales and England, and was the last effort made by 
the Welsh to recover their freedom. 

Whatever were the feelings of that age, it is well 
that barbarism is succeeded by a better state of things, 
and rapine and cruelty softened down into the arts of 
peace, and milder habits of civilised life. We can 
now unite in interest, mingle in friendship with our 
conquerors, and enjoy with them the same constitutional 
liberties. 

There is no account of any wars, in the history of 
Carnarvon Castle, from the time of Glyndwr until the 
days of Oliver Cromwell. There appears to have 
existed perfect peace for a period of more than 200 
years. The garrison at the castle was continued the 
whole time, but the long period of peace had, no 
doubt, lessened the number of soldiers, for the town 
and castle were easily taken by Capt. Swanby, one of 
Cromwell's officers, in 1644, when he took 400 pri- 
soners, and a great quantity of arms and ammunition. 
It is supposed that Cromwell took away the orna- 
ments of the castle, all the silver, brass, and lead it 
contained, as there are none now remaining ; and his 
character was that of a general despoiler. It is said 
that he commenced pulling down the strong apart- 
ments near the Queen's Gate, but found this so diffi- 
cult a task that he abandoned the idea altogether. 
Cromwell was the first who brought cannon to bear 
against the castle, and it is supposed that^ome of the 
shattered towers on the water side were defaced by his 
firing. The castle was soon after retaken, and Lord 
Byron was appointed Governor; but, on its being 
attacked in 1646, by General Mytton and General 
Langhorn, he surrendered it on honourable terms. It 
was then in the care of General Mytton and Col. 
Mason. In 1648 it was besieged by Sir John Owen; 
but, hearing that Col. Carter and Col. Twisselton were 
on their march to the place, he drew part of his forces 
from the place to arrest their progress. They met at 



40 

Dalar Hir, near Llandegai, where Sir John was de- 
feated and made prisoner, with one hundred of his 
followers. He was imprisoned with his followers, 
brought to trial in Walmer Castle, and condemned to 
be executed, but was afterwards pardoned. He retired 
into Wales, w^here he died in 1666, and was buried at 
the church of Penmorfa, his native parish, where a 
monument still exists to his memory. 

After this contest the whole of North Wales sub- 
mitted to England. 

The castle of Carnarvon remained afterwards in the 
quiet possession of the English, and no effort was 
again made to interfere with it on the paii: of the 
Welsh. Whatever damage it afterwards sustained 
w^as owing to the government of the English them- 
selves. It is an extraordinary thing, but nevertheless 
true, that in the peaceable times of Charles II. an 
order was sent to Sir John Carter and Wm. Griffith, 
Esq., to dismantle and demolish the castle and town 
walls of Carnarvon, dated at Whitehall, 24th October, 
1660, and signed by the King himself. The original 
document is now in the possession of Sir Bichard 
Bulkeley, Bart., of Baron Hill. 

To what extent this order was obeyed is uncertain ; 
or, indeed, if the parties obeyed it at all, is not on re- 
cord ; it is probable that some local circumstances 
occurred to prevent its being carried into full effect, 
for certainly the walls of the castle, or those of the 
town, were never defaced. Whatever defacement 
occurred in CromwelFs time, he was evidently not 
the finisher of the spoliation of the castle. 

There is no record when the garrison were with- 
drawn from the castle. In all probability they were 
removed at the time the order came down for the 
dismantling, as w^e have no account of them being 
there afterwards, and the interior of the towers shew 
that the floorings and roofs must have been removed 



41 

There was a prison for malefactors of the Tvt)rst 
kind inside the castle, but in what part cannot now 
be traced. 

The property of Carnarvon Castle is now in the 
Crown. It was formerly held by the Wynns, of Glyn- 
llifon; the Bulkeleys, of Baron Hill; and the Mos- 
tyns, of Gloddaeth. The present Constable of the 
Castle is the Marquis of Anglesey, who has held the 
office, together with that Ranger of Snowdon Forest, 
for many years. 

In 1825 a curious circular brass or mixed metal 
vessel, was found in one of the towers of the castle, 
supposed to have been a baptismal font, or, probably, a 
bell. It stands 7 inches high, is 8^ inches across the 
mouth, and weighs 261bs., and is encircled by several 
fillets ; on the uppermost is the date 1328, and the 
inscription in Roman letters GOD TE. IP. Lower 
down is another, highly ornamented with figures 
resembling griffins in the act of worshipping before 
altars. 

The first Member of Parliament was John Puleston, 
the second one Robert Puleston, descendants of their 
relative Sir Roger de Puleston. It appears by this 
that the town and county were conscious of the injury 
done to their ancestors, and wished to do their descen- 
dants honour instead. 

Carnarvon is rendered very striking by the summits 
of the castle towers and Coed Helen Summer House. 
From whatever entrance it is approached, these objects 
are visible at a great distance ; they, together with the 
Menai Straits, and the Bay in the distance, form a very 
picturesque appearance. 

Eveiy person wishing for a view of the country 
should ascend Twthill, a rocky eminence behind the 
Uxbridge Arms Hotel, whence may be seen a pretty 
view of the town, the Menai Straits, Holyhead moun- 
tain, and Anglesey, the Eifl mountains, and, on the 



42 

other side, Snowdon and the adjommg mountains, to- 
wards Conway. On a clear day the mountains of 
Wicklow in Ireland may be seen. 

A very pretty view of the town may also be obtained 
on the summit of the hill near Llanbeblig Church, but 
the most picturespue is beyond Pont Seiont on the top 
of the hill above PwU-y-Gro, from or near Penbryn 
Seiont ; a very pretty bird's eye view may also be seen 
from Coed Helen Summer House. 

Carnarvon is decidedly the best town in North 
Wales, as regards its markets and conveniences ; it is 
also the largest commercial town; its export and import 
trade is very considerable. Its shipping interest is very 
extensive. A great quantity of slates are exported an- 
nually to all parts of England, America, &c., and goods 
are brought twice a week by steam packet, besides re- 
gular trading vessels. 

Carnarvon has the advantage of two News Rooms, 
each well supplied with papers. One is at the Baths, 
in Church-street, the other in Castle-square. There is 
also an extensive Circulating Library in the town, and 
a large Billiard-room. It has also good Bathing Ma- 
chines, about half a mile out of town, where every 
civility will be shewn. 

There are three good inns in Carnarvon, — the Ux- 
bridge Arms Hotel, beautifully situated at the entrance 
to the town, the Sportsman, near the castle, and the 
Castle Hotel, in Castle-square, — in each place every ac- 
commodation will be afforded, and every civility shewn. 
The Guild Hall, in High-street, was erected over the 
old Exchequer Office, at the joint expense of Sir Wm. 
Wynn and Sir John Wynn, Bart., in 1767. It is a 
large room, and is used as an assembly room, and for 
other public meetings. Underneath is the Lockup 
House, and the Station of the Police. A few years ago, 
in opening the road under the archway to lay down the 
gas pipes, a dungeon was discovered here, a square 



43 

room, having no way into it but from the top, and that 
capable of admitting only one person ; it must have 
been used as a secret prison. 

The County Hall, where the assizes are held, is at 
the top of Gaol-street, and is a strong building, but not 
conveniently arranged inside. Over the bench is the 
portrait of John Garnons, Esq., formerly Prothonotary 
of this circuit ; and in the Grand Jury Room portraits 
of Hugh Leycester, Esq., for many years Chief Justice 
of North Wales, and of Thomas Assheton Smith, Esq., 
of Vaynol, a gentleman who was much respected in 
the county. 

There is also in the Grand Jury Room a handsome 
monument erected to the memory of Lord Bulkeley, 
of Baron Hill, Beaumaris, a gentleman long con- 
nected with this county, and justly esteemed for his 
kindness, and for his endeavours to promote the inte- 
rests of the place. 

Adjoining the County Hall is the Gaol, built in the 
year 1794, by Mr. Penson of Wrexham, but of late 
years much improved, and kept in excellent order by 
Mr. Dixon, the governor. It is a pattern of clean- 
liness and neatness, and is in excellent repair. The 
prisoners are usefully employed in making mats, &c., 
which are sold to the public at reasonable prices. It 
has a very neat chapel inside, where Divine Service 
is regularly performed. There are in general but 
few prisoners for trial, and the Judge has often to 
congratulate the grand jury here, as well as in other 
parts of Wales, on the peaceable state of the Prin- 
cipality. 

The Market Hall is in Palace-street, a large and 
convenient building, erected on the site of the old 
"Plas Mawr," in the year 1832. The land was 
kindly given for the purpose by T. A. Smith, Esq., of 
Vaynol. 

The Meat Market Hall is in Market-street, where 
formerly the Corn Market was held. It is a strong 



44 

square building, and conveniently arranged. The Fish 
Market is held close by. 

The Museum is in Church-street, at the Baths, and 
contains many valuable relics and antiquities of Wales, 
also an extensive collection of minerals and geological 
specimens. It may be inspected on application to Mr. 
Morris Jones, who resides on the premises. 

St. Mary's Church is a Chapel of Ease, and was 
formerly the garrison chapel. It was rebuilt in 1812. 
It is a neat building, and of late years has been much 
improved. It has a fine-toned organ, the gift of the 
Marquis of Anglesey. The service here is performed 
in English, morning and evening. The parish church 
(Llanbeblig), is about half a mile from the town, on 
the road towards Beddgelert. It is dedicated to St. 
Publicus. Richard II. granted it, and the Town 
Church, to the nuns of St. Mary's, in Chester, On 
the dissolution of the monasteries, &c., in the reign of 
Hem-y VIII., it was attached to the see of Chester, 
and the living is still in the gift of the Bishop of 
Chester. It contains no monument of notice, except 
one to W. Griffiths, Esq., a descendant of the Pules- 
tons, who died 1587, and Margaret his wife, who died 
1593. Their figures are in white marble, admirably 
carved, lying on a mat ; on the sides are several small 
alabaster figures, evidently the work of a superior 
artist. 

1 he church is in good repair ; it has been much im- 
proved, and its accommodations enlarged, within the 
last few years. The service is always in Welsh, and 
is well attended. The churchyard contains many 
handsome tombs, and many families of distinction 
are buried here. Of late years a field has been added 
to the parish ground, kindly given by Thomas Asshe- 
ton Smith, Esq. The churchyard is dear to many 
inhabitants of Carnarvon, as " they have many friends 
there," some lost to them in the blooTii of youth, some 
in the middle s^tage of life, and others who had arrived 



45 

u a good old age. The custom of adorning the graves 
Ivith evergreens and shrubs is very general here, as 
In all country places in Wales. They are not only 
3lanted on the newly raised hillocks, but are often 
renewed again and again. 
The following pretty epitaph in the churchyard of 

iLougher, in Glamorganshire, is illustrative of this 

Icustom : — 

The village maidens to her grave shall bring 
Selected garlands, each returning spring ; 
Selected sweets, in emblem of the maid 
Who underneath this hallow'd turf is laid ! 
Like her they flourish, beauteous to the eye, 
Like her, too soon, they languish, fade and die. 

There are several large and well-built places of 
I worship belonging to the Calvinistics, Wesleyan Me- 
thodists, Independents, Baptists, &c. The services of 
I all these chapels are well attended, and we think we 
may say with perfect confidence that there are but few 
in Carnarvon who are not in regular attendance at 
either church or chapel. 

The Wesleyan Methodists have an English chapel, 
where service is regularly performed, morning and 
evening. 

The National School is a large handsome building, 
in the outskirts of the town, on the Llanberis road, 
and was erected in the year 1843, at a cost of nearly 
3,000Z., raised by public subscription, aided by grants 
fi'om the Committee of Council and the National 
Society. The ground, which is very spacious, was the 
gift of Mrs. and Miss Garnons. It serves as a model 
school for the surrounding districts, is capable of con- 
taining from 800 to J 000 children, and is exceedingly 
well-conducted under the able and effective manage- 
ment of Mr. Foster. In connection with it is a Train- 
ing School ; and it is but right to say, to the praise of 
the master, that several useful and intelligent young 
ixien havf' h^^pn the irsnlt of his attentions, who have 



46 

been able to take the charge of other schools in the | 
neighbourhood. 

The Infant School is opposite to the National! 
School. It is exceedingly well attended, and under 
able management. 

A British School has also been lately established, I 
but no separate building has been erected for the pur- ' 
pose ; it is at present held under the Engedi Calvin- 
istic chapel. 

A Free, or Ragged School, has recently been erected 
at Twthill, through the exertions of the worthy Vicar, 
the Rev. T. Thomas. 

The Baths are in Church-street, and were erected 
for the benefit of the town by the Marquis of Angle- 
sey ; they are extremely well constructed, and kept in 
excellent order. The terms are reasonable, and the 
establishment is well conducted under the manage- 
ment of Mr. and Mrs. Jones. In connection with 
the Baths, is the News Room, the Billiard Room, and 
the Museum. 

The Post Office is in Palace-street. There is a mail 
daily to London, and all parts of England ; and one 
despatched to Pwllheli, Tanybwlch, and Barmouth, 
passing through Tre' Madoc, &c. 

In the year 1820, the Eisteddfod, or Congress of 
Welsh Bards, was held in Carnarvon, on which oc- 
casion the Marquis of Anglesey was president. The 
company was exceedingly numerous from all parts of 
Wales. The meeting was commenced in the County 
Hall, but, for want of room, was afterwards adjourned 
to the Castle. 

In the year 1831, the Castle was honoured by a 
visit from the Queen and the Duchess of Kent, and 
will be long remembered. It was through the muni- 
ficence of her Royal Highness that the Infant School 
was commenced. 

Carnarvon was made into a Bonded Port in the 
year 1840, by the exertions of Douglas Pennant, 



47 

Esq., the Member for the County, and W. Bulkeley 
Hughes, Esq., the Member for the Boroughs. Too 
much praise cannot be bestowed upon these gentlemen 
for their perseverance and activity on this occasion. 
The benefit of the boon has been realized by many, 
and the advantages to the neighbouring tovrns is felt 
and appreciated. Carnarvon, from its central situa- 
tion, has the means for supplying the country for 
many miles round. The harbour is regulated by trus- 
tees, and possesses a considerable income from dues 
chargeable on the vessels, and for their freights, and 
goods. The amount of revenue has of late been 
much improved by judicious management. Under the 
control of the Harbour Trust is an extensive Patent 
Slip, where vessels of any size may be repaired. The 
funds are expended in the improvement of the har- 
bour, and the sea coast on the bar, by means of buoys, 
&c., for the advantage of the town. The Harbour 
Offices are on the quay, near the castle. 

The shipping interest is considerable, and great 
quantities of slate are annually exported from the 
various quays in the neighbourhood, besides copper 
ore, &c. Several vessels trade regularly to London, 
and return with goods. We may here remark that 
Carnarvon will always be the great depot for goods 
for the surrounding country, and whatever changes 
may take place, will always maintain its position, and 
continue to be the centre spot for the export and 
import trade. 

The principal drawback to Carnarvon has been the 
want of a proper navigation of the S willy Rocks. 
This has been a real or pretended barrier to the 
Steam-packets from Liverpool regularly plying to 
Carnarvon, and has caused them to anchor at the 
Menai Bridge. Much injury has been done to the 
town by this means, as parties have been induced 
to commence their routes fi:'om the Bridge and 
Bangor, when Carnarvon would be more central. 



48 

We hope, however, that the time is not far distant 
when the Swilly Rocks will be blasted, and thus the 
means be afforded of a direct and safe navigation, 
when Carnarvon, will be made the terminus of the 
voyage, to the benefit of all visitors. 

The second meeting of the Cambrian Archaeological 
Society was held in Carnarvon, in September, 1848, 
and was numerously attended, when many valuable 
relics, ancient books, drawings, plans, coins, &c., were 
exhibited. 

Carnarvon possesses many advantages for residents, 
as regards its markets. It contains a better supply 
of meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, &c., than any other 
town, while it is, also, well supplied with butter and 
eggs. The regular market-day is on Saturday, and 
commences early, when the commodities are brought 
from many miles round. The Market Hall is, how- 
ever, j)retty well supplied on other days. The town 
has much increased within the last four years, and 
some very neat houses have been built in the suburbs, 
where apartments may be obtained, or a whole house 
rented. Several other good houses have apartments in 
Church-street, Segontium-terrace, Castle-square, &c. 

There are good machines, also, at Alalas, for bath- 
ing ; the charges are moderate, and the bathing- 
ground has been much improved. 

The castle has lately undergone a thorough repair, 
and many parts are now made as they formerly ex- 
isted. Great credit is due to the contractors for the 
very able manner i:i which they have executed their 
task. The walls are now rendered secure, and are in 
exact resemblance to what they were in former ages. 
The same kind of stone having been used, and the 
original order preserved, a very short time will suffice, 
when the weather and the atmosphere shall have 
effected a change, to render the new stones in ap- 
pearance exactly as the old ones were, and when 
no traces of the new ones will appear. The castle 



51 

has now been so far improved and repaired, that we 
may venture to assert, it will last for many succeeding 
ages, and its original character be preserved, as a 
monument of times long gone by. 

It is to be hoped that a further sum will be even- 
tually voted for the restoration of the stairs in the 
towers, and the communication between one part of 
the castle and the other, which is at present very 
imperfect, so as to restore it to something like its 
former splendour and grandeur. 

During the alterations that took place, many in- 
teresting discoveries were made : — the existence of the 
well, which for many years had been doubtful, was 
made apparent, — several towers were cleared to their 
proper level, — the Mound, near Queen Eleanor's Gate, 
was opened, and a number of stone cannon balls, 
several ancient guns, a pig of lead, many Flemish 
coins, and fragments of earthen vessels, &:c., were 
found. These relics are now deposited in the Museum. 

The castle may be viewed at all reasonable hours, 
and every assistance will be given to strangers to 
traverse the edifice, by Mrs. Jones, who lives inside, 
close by the gate. 

In former days many a pleasant evening has been 
spent at the inns, by the enlivening music of the harp, 
and it is to be regretted that the custom has been 
obliged to be discontinued, owing to the want of suffi- 
cient encouragement from parties visiting Wales. The 
harpers of Wales are, for the most part, poor, and 
unable to spare their time without being properly 
remunerated, and, in consequence, the inns have been 
deserted. 

The harp, however, is still the favourite instrument 
of Wales, and has its celebrated performers. The best 
player of the present day is Mr. Richard Roberts, the 
blind harper, who has always lived in Carnarvon, and 
may be considered the first performer in Wales ; he has 
gained several prizes. At the Eisteddfod at Denbigh, 



52 

in 1828, he gained the gold harp, and has been since 
that time a judge of the performance of others, not 
being allowed to compete owing to his superior abiUty. 
The prize composition, " Sweet Richard," for which he 
gained the gold harp at Denbigh, is here subjoined by 
his kind permission. 

We may add that Mr. Roberts's services may still 
be engaged for enlivenment, and no visitor fond of 
music should omit the opportunity of witnessing his 
unrivalled performance. It is to be hoped that the 
harpers will eventually find better encouragement, and 
that the poet's words will prove prophetic, who sings, 

" 0, no I the sweet Telyn* shall cheer us again, 

And the youth of the mountain shall dance to the strain ; 

The cares that oppress us, the woes that surround, 

Shall flee far away, at the heart-easing sound, 

O'er the plain and the valley, glad plenty shall reign, 

And the harp shall be heard on thy mountains again." 

The practice of singing with the harp was formerly 
much followed in Wales, and many of the country 
people were famous for their talents in this respect. 
This practice is now confined to the few, as fairs and 
weddings have ceased to have the same attractions for 
these customs. 

Carnarvon is a desirable residence for the Angler, 
whence he can take his daily excursion and return ; the 
river Seiont may be chosen as nearest the town, and 
good fishing may be had as far as the lakes of Llan- 
beris. Bontnewydd river, commencing about two miles 
from town, up to Cwellyn lakes, will afford good sport, 
particularly in the Vale of Bettws, as far as Nant Mill, 
where very fine trout may be caught. There are other 
rivers at a greater distance from town well stored with 
fish, and winding through a pretty locality. 

As several pleasant walks will be found in the 
suburbs of the town, we will endeavour to point them 
out. A good long walk may be taken on the Pwllheli 

* Telyn, the Welsh name for the harp. 



53 

road over Pont Seiont Bridge, turning to the left a 
little above the Turnpike, following the road to the 
back of Penrhos-house, and turning back at Glangwna 
Turnpike to town, passing Llanbeblig Church. This 
route will afford many pleasant and diversified views of 
the castle, the sea, and the country. It might also be 
extended by following the road past Glangwna Turn- 
pike to the Llanberis road at Pont Rug. 

Another shorter w^alk, but equally picturesque is 
along the banks of the Seiont river, passing the mills, 
and following the course of the river to the Beddgelert 
road, or turning off before you reach Pont Seiont, and 
passing through the fields at Llanbeblig Church. Also, 
a short walk past the National School, and on the 
Llanberis road, turning down at the gate on the left 
leading to Coed Mawr, and passing Maesincla, coming 
into the road towards TwthilL This walk may be 
extended further by keeping to the right towards Cae 
Bold, and going through the fields to the Bangor 
road, passing Cae Gwyn. Some parts of this walk 
command an extensive view of the Menai Straits and 
Anglesey. 

The Bangor road is always a favourite walk, and 
commands a pretty view of the Menai Straits. A nice 
walk and sea breeze may be had by turning down to 
the New Ferry, and returning to Carnarvon along the 
sea shore. A short walk may be obtained by crossing 
the Coed Helen or the Aber Ferry, following the public 
road to Pont Seiont, and returning to Carnarvon ; or it 
may be extended to Bontnewydd, a pleasant village, 
with a very pretty mill and waterfall, well worth 
seeing, particularly when the water is full in the river. 

To those who are fond of the sea breeze, I would 
recommend crossing the Aber Ferry, and following the 
shore to Llanfaglan church, taking the path to the road 
leading to Pont Seiont, &c. Several kinds of excursions 
may be obtained by water to various parts. Parties 
may hire boats for any length of time, or to anv part, 

E 2 



54 

at a reasonable charge; boats being always in readi- 
ness at Porth-yr-Aur. The ferry steamer crosses to 
Anglesey several times in the day, at the low charge of 
3c?. ; it is well worth crossing into Anglesey, for the 
picturesque view of the town, which is seen to great 
advantage, and also an extensive view of the Carnar- 
vonshire mountains. Excursions may be made by 
water to Belan, a fort erected by Lord Newborough, 
also well worth seeing, having every appearance of a 
regular battery, together with moats, draw-bridge, &c. 
&c. This is a favourite residence and bathing place of 
Glynllifon family, in the summer months. An extended 
excursion may be made to Llanddwyn, about six miles 
from Carnarvon, where there is a Light House, and 
a Life Boat kept for the benefit of the Carnarvon Bar. 

Let us go round, 
And let the sail be slack, the course be slow, 
That at our leisure, as we coast along", 
We may contemplate, and from every scene 
Receive its influence. 

Rogers. 

There is at Llanddwyn much to interest the anti- 
quarian. The remains of an old church, dedicated to 
St. Denwen, daughter of Brychan, formerly one of the 
first of its kind, and in the reign of Henry VIII., one of 
the richest prebends in connection with Bangor, is still 
to be seen. Its wealth, however, did not arise from the 
real fertility of the place, but from the superstition of 
the people — from pilgrimages to Crosses, Holy Wells, 
&c. The church itself was not an elegant building, nor 
was the prebend house, but it is noted as the residence 
of Richard Kyffyn, the rector, and afterwards Dean of 
Bangor, called the Black Dean, on account of his 
adherence to the House of Lancaster, and his forwarding 
intelligence by means of fishing vessels to the Duke of 
Richmond. This place was supposed formerly to have 
had a communication with a town opposite the village 
of Clynnog, in connection with the church and mo- 



55 

nastery of that place, but which lias since been over- 
flowed by the sea. 

An excursion may be made into Anglesey over Tal 
y Foel Ferry, to visit Newborough and Aberffraw, 
places of great note in former days. Newborough, 
which is three miles from the shore, was the manor 
of our princes, and the seat of justice for the whole 
comot of Menai, and was formerly called Rhosfair. 
Edward the 1st erected the town into a corporation, 
and gave it a guild mercatory ; from that time it was 
called Newborough. The Crown had its steward for 
this district, at a salary of ten pounds a year ; it was 
also the county town of Anglesey, until the time of 
Edward the 6th, when the honour was transferred 
to Beaumaris. It is now a small but populous village, 
and is celebrated for the manufacture of mats and 
ropes from the sea-reed grass, which are brought to 
Carnarvon market in great abundance. From New- 
borough the traveller may proceed to Plas Gwyn, the 
birthplace of the celebrated Rev. Henry Rowlands, 
the author of the Mona Antiqua, He was instituted 
to the vicarage of Llanedwen, in 1690. He died in 
1721, and was interred in the south side of Llanedwen 
Church. Aberffraw, which is nine miles from the 
shore, was formerly the chief seat of our princes, 
and one of the three comots of justice for the Prin- 
cipality. Here was also kept one of the three copies 
of the ancient code of laws. This place was fixed on 
by Roderick the Great, in 870, for the residence of 
his successors. It continued to be a place of note 
till after the reign of Edward the 3rd. It is now, 
like Newborough, a small village, but possessed of a 
good inn called the Prince Llewelyn, lately erected ; 
this place will be found a quiet retreat in the sum- 
mer season, and good sport may be had at Llyn 
Coron close by, where the fish from the lake are 
excellent, but require to be quickly dressed. This 
place is celebrated for its cakes, called Aberffraw cake^^p 



56 

Excursions may be taken down the Menai Straits 
as far as Beaumaris, affording the most beautiful and 
diversified scenery. These trips may be accomplished 
by means of a powerful steamer, the Fairy ^ of 60 
horse power, built expressly for the station (to pass 
through the S willy s at all tides) with passengers to 
and from the Liverpool steamers. She also makes 
an intermediate trip daily, thus affording to parties at 
Beaumaris, Bangor, &c., the opportunity of visiting 
Carnarvon, and returning the same day. The saloon 
is most tastefully fitted up, and refi'eshments of the 
best description, with every accommodation, may be 
obtained on board. The objects to be seen are Plas 
Coch, Plas Newydd, Port Dinorwic, and the Swilly 
Rocks. Plas Coch is an antique mansion, the resi- 
dence of William Bulkeley Hughes, Esq., the mem- 
ber for the Carnarvonshire Boroughs. It is one of 
the most considerable of the ancient residences of the 
gentry of Anglesey now extant. It was erected in 
the time of Queen Elizabeth, by Hugh Hughes, Esq., 
Attorney- General, and member for the County of 
Anglesey. This mansion is built of a red rock 
found close by, and hence derives its name. It has 
been lately much improved, and the interior arranged 
with excellent taste and judgment. Plas Newydd is 
the property of the Marquis of Anglesey, and for- 
merly his residence, but is now occupied by T. A. 
Smith, Esq., the extensive proprietor of the Llanberis 
Slate Quarries, and the owner of Vaynol, an ancient 
residence of the family. Plas Newydd is well worth 
seeing ; the grounds are tastefully laid out, and the 
mansion is beautifully shaded by an extensive wood. 
In the grounds are two Cromlechs near each other, 
in very perfect condition, and overhung by branches 
of a large ash tree. These Cromlechs are worth 
visiting, being considered the most perfect monuments 
of the kind in the kingdom. Above the ground on 
Craig y Dinas, on the side of the Holyhead road, is 



67 

a beautiful column, erected in 1816, to commemorate 
the military services of the Marquis of Anglesey. 
Within the park, close by, is Druid's Lodge, the 
residence of J. Sanderson, Esq. It is laid out with 
great taste, and is beautifully situated. 

In 1821 Plas Newydd was visited by George 4th, 
on his way to Ireland, and in 1832 by the present 
Queen and her illustrious mother, the Duchess of 
Kent. Those who have the opportunity of coming 
up the Menai Straits by the steam packet, will enjoy 
a rich treat not easily forgotten. 

Port Dinorwic has been much enlarged and improved 
within the last few years, by the spirited proprietor, T. 
A. Smith, Esq. From this port the slates from his 
celebrated quarry at Llanberis are shipped to all parts 
of the kingdom. 

Carnarvon should be made the residence or starting 
point of the tourist, to visit the principal places in the 
locality, as all the beautiful scenes in this county may 
be visited with greater ease and with better advantage, 
from this place than from any other. We shall sup- 
pose the tourist to be starting from Carnarvon, and 
give the various routes by which he may employ him- 
self to the greatest advantage. The time spent upon 
each route must, of course, depend upon the stay of 
the tourist. The first route we shall point out is 
towards Beddgelert, around the mountains ; and we 
should advise all parties to go by NantUe Lakes and 
Drws y Coed, rather than by the regular post road, the 
former being far more picturesque and interesting. This 
road will commence past Pont Seiont, Pont Newydd, 
to Pen y Groes, turning off through the slate quarries 
and past the NantUe Lakes. The slate quarries here 
are well worth seeing, being numerous and extensively 
worked. They are quite different in appearance to Mr. 
Pennant's quarry, and the machinery required is of 
another construction, as the situation of the quarries is 
deeper in the mountain. A great quantity of slate is 



58 

daily brought to Carnarvon for shipment along the 
railway. 

The Valley of Nantlle is very picturesque, and the 
tvro lakes are large and of a pretty form. The slate 
quarries on each side, w^ith high mountains above them, 
and Snow^don in the distance, form a very grand scene. 
From Nantlle Lakes the best and most prominent viev^^ 
of Snowdon is to be seen ; it was from these lakes that 
Mr. Wilson took his celebrated view of Snowdon. It 
is much to be regretted that this spot is so little known 
to tourists. If an Inn were erected here it would soon 
be quite as celebrated as the one at Llanberis. Mr. 
Freeman observes, were I to chaperone a friend, who 
had never been in the country, I would bring him from 
Carnarvon into Nantlle. Near these lakes Edward the 
1st, in the summer of 1284, resided, and from hence 
issued several of his edicts. The place is called Bala 
Deulyn, or the place where the river discharges itself 
into two lakes. A farm house is shewn, said to have 
been the royal residence, and which continued in the 
possession of the Welsh princes since the time of Owen 
Gwynedd. The road leads from the pools to Drws y 
Coed, where some valuable copper mines were formerly 
worked to great advantage. Near these mines, and on 
the , road towards Beddgelert, is the floating island 
mentioned by Giraldus Cambrensis ; it is somewhat 
difficult to approach, owing to the peat-bogs and 
swamps that hem it in. This pass is exceedingly grand, 
and very much resembles Nant Frangon in appearance, 
except that it is more confined, and its stupendous 
rocks are more terrific. On looking down the top it 
has the advantage of Llanberis Pass, by having the sea 
in the distance, which makes it more picturesque. After 
reaching the top of the pass, the road leads you to the 
regular post road of Carnarvon, within four miles of 
Beddgelert. 

The Mail-road from Carnarvon to Beddgelert is not 
interesting until you reach the Vale of Bcttws. Here 



59 

the church in the valley, and the sublime mountains, 
form a pretty scene ; and further on is the beautiful 
cascade of Nant Mill : this is an exceedingly pretty 
spot, and is universally admired. The fall, however, 
would appear to much greater advantage were it not 
for the grand mountains that surround it. To view 
this fall to advantage, parties should depart from the 
road and cross the river. After passing Nant Mill, 
the next objects that attract notice are the Lake of 
Cwellyn, an excellent one for fishing, and the Moun- 
tain of Snowdon. From the road a very extensive 
view of Snowdon may be seen for three or four miles, 
and an ascent from this part is commenced from the 
Snowdon Guide House, about the middle of the lake, 
where a guide may be obtained. This ascent is con- 
sidered the shortest, but is in some places very steep ; 
the road is, however, good, and those who wish to as- 
cend one side, and return by the other to Llanberis, 
will be gratified by the diversified scenes that surround 
them. The next object of interest is a remarkable 
stone, close to the road side, rudely formed by nature, 
but representing a perfect resemblance to the late Wil- 
liam, Pitt ; from this circumstance it has been called 
Pitt's Head. The profile is only visible from the road 
from Carnarvon to Beddgelert ; the other side of the 
stone possesses no interest. 



BEDDGELERT 

Is a pretty village, surrounded by mountains and trees, 
forming a delightful retreat, and a change from wild 
and boundless sterility to happy and beautiful repose. 
It is much frequented in the summer season, and con- 
tains an excellent Inn, ably conducted, with every ac- 
commodation, and good fishing. This village is cele- 
brated as being the place where Llewelyn, Prince of 
Wales, killed his faithful greyhound, called Gelert, 



60 

hence Beddgelert (Gelert's grave). The spot is shewn, 
consisting of a few stones in a meadow, railed round, 
where the grave is said to exist, — a pleasing medi- 
tation, whether true or not : — 

"The remains of famed Gelert, so faithful and good, 

The bounds of the cantrey conceal — 
Whenever the doe or the stag he pursued, 

His master was sure of a meal." 

The story has been extremely well told in a poem 
by the Hon. W. R. Spencer, which is too long for 
insertion here. The subject continues .to be interest- 
ing, and most travellers, and every sentimental young 
damsel, visits the spot. 

"And till great Snowdon's rocks grow old, 

And cease the storm to brave, 
The consecrated spot shall hold 

The name of Gelert grave." 

The church is a pretty structure, dedicated to St. 
Mary, and was conventual. It is supposed to be 
the most ancient foundation in the country, except 
Bardsey. 

The tourist may here obtain a guide to Snowdon^ 
and ponies can be hired for the journey. The cele- 
brated Pass of Aberglaslyn is about a mile and a half 
from the Inn, and should be visited by all tourists. 
It is decidedly the finest mountain pass in the Princi- 
pality. From Beddgelert the route may be continued 
to Tre' Madoc, Port Madoc, and over the celebrated 
embankment to the Vale of Festiniog. This will form 
a delightful journey; the scenery all the way is re- 
markably pretty and interesting. The direct road 
back towards Carnarvon will be through the Pass of 
Nant Gwynant, — the most picturesque and sublime 
spot in Wales. In this place there is everything to 
interest the traveller. The view throughout is diver- 
sified, and varying at every mile, and contains two 
beautiful lakes. This vale has been called the Vale 
of Waters, and is about six miles in length. It pre- 




vJi 



-# ^1 



61 

sents some of the finest views of Snowdon, the peak 
of which towers above all the other mountains, and is 
to be seen almost all along the vale under different 
aspects. No tourist should omit this excursion, if 
possible. 

Behind, thou fair Llyn Gwynant ! with thy smile, 
Of quenchless beauty, and thy mellow'd shade 

Of deepening purple, softening the defile 
With hues of living* joy that never fade. 

Wilkinson. 

When the top of the vale is gained, the journey 
may be continued to Capel Curig for the night, or 
a return effected down the Pass of Llanberis to Car- 
narvon. 

The next route we shall point out is from Carnar- 
von to 

LLANBERIS, 

A place of exceeding beauty and grandeur, a distance 
of eight miles, along a good road. For the first three 
miles after leaving Carnarvon, there is nothing par- 
ticularly attractive, but afterwards, on the opening 
mountain view, about Cwm-y-Glo, the mountain sce- 
nery is grand beyond description. We would ad- 
vise all travellers to get out of the vehicle at the 
Turnpike, take a look down the lake, and make a 
survey of the mountains : the scene is beautiful. 

At Llanberis there are two Hotels, — the largest, 
the Victoria, was built by Mr. Smith, for the good 
of that part of the country. It is an excellent estab- 
lishment, with every accommodation, and is capable 
of entertaining a great number of visitors. The other 
is the Dolbadarn Hotel — a smaller house, but well 
conducted, and where a great many may be accom- 
modated. Both inns, we are happy to say, are well 
attended during the summer months. 

Llanberis is the celebrated spot for the ascent of 



62 

Snowdon, and the road up is picturesque in tlip ex- 
treme. The route has been described by many ; and, 
for a description of Snowdon, we need only refer the 
reader to the various guide books pubhshed, as they 
contain a full account of the ascent of various travellers. 
One piece of advice however, we will give, and that 
is that the traveller start early, that he may enjoy a 
clear view, and save himself some fatigue from the 
heat of the mid-day sun. We would also suggest the 
hire of a pony, either for each traveller, or one between 
two, to ride and tie, as the ascent is tedious, and rather 
too long to walk the whole distance without great 
fatigue. We may add that ponies may be hired here 
such as are accustomed to the mountains. 

There is an exceedingly pretty waterfall at Llanberis, 
well worth seeing ; a new road has lately been made to 
it for the convenience of visitors. This fall differs from 
any in Wales in its character as to size, but its beauty 
consists in its form, which, after a rainy season, is seen 
to great advantage. 

The slate quarries are well worth every traveller's 
attention, and the view from the top of the quarries 
alone is sufficient to repay any exertions made. These 
quarries, like all others near Carnarvon, are dif- 
ferently constructed to those of Mr. Pennant's, and, 
consequently, afford scope to another kind of ma- 
chinery. 

The scenery about Llanberis is so grand and diver- 
sified that it is impossible to describe it. It must be 
seen to be properly appreciated. An excursion may be 
made hence over the mountains to Nant Frangon, Llyn 
Idwal, &c., by means of ponies. 

Dolbadarn Castle is an object of interest from its 
previous history, and its ruins cannot fail to be con- 
templated with delight. It is a romantic tower, and, 
from its elevated position above the lakes, is seem from 
a great distance. 

On departing from Llanberis towards Capel Curig, 



63 

you traverse the celebrated Pass, which is considered 
one of the principal beauties of Wales. Its scenery is 
magnificent, and cannot fail to create a peculiar in- 
terest and admiration. The village of Llanberis is 
at the foot of the Pass, and the Church close by is 
a pleasing object, reclining, as it were, on the side 
of the mountain. On reaching the top of the Pass, 
you have an extensive view of the Vale of Gwynant 
for many miles, and Snowdon is seen to great ad- 
vantage. The tourist may here take the road to- 
wards Beddgelert, or the straight road to Capel Curig. 
The latter we have now to describe — the route from 
Beddgelert to Llanberis having been previously men- 
tioned. 

Capel Curig is situate amidst mighty mountains, 
contains an excellent Inn, and has a large lake, out of 
which flows the river Lugwy, which forms the cataract 
of the Swallow Fall. From this point a beautiful view 
of the mountains is obtained, and Snowdon is very 
conspicuous. The distance to ascend Snowdon is 
about nine miles, and although the ascent is very sub- 
lime and picturesque, it is far more tedious and irk- 
some than either that of Llanberis or Beddgelert. To 
those tourists who have strong nerves, and can bear 
fatigue, it may prove interesting ; but, generally speak- 
ing, the ascent from the other points is preferred. 
When at Capel Curig, the tourist should not omit to 
ascend Moel Shiabod, a mountain which rises some 
2,800 feet above Capel Curig. A journey to the top 
will amply repay the exertion. From Capel Curig 
the tourist may proceed on the Shrewsbury road to- 
wards Llangollen, or return through Nant Frangon to 
Bangor. 

The next excursion we shall name is from Carnar- 
von to the Eifl Mountains, &c. The route commences 
over Pont Seiont, and passes the pretty village of 
Bontnewydd and GlynUifon Park. The tourist should 
visit Dinas Dinlle, a Roman encampment, about six 
miles distant ; it is near the sea, and at high tides the 



64 

waters comes entirely up to it. The fort was of a cir- 
cular form, and about 400 feet in diameter. On all 
sides, except towards the sea, it was defended by a 
deep fosse, five or six yards wide. The principal en- 
trance was on the east side. Within are remains of 
foundations of buildings, of an oblong form, con- 
structed with earth and round stones. This was a 
commanding station, and from its elevated position no 
doubt was a point of observation communicating with 
other Roman forts, previously mentioned. 

The next place of importance is the pretty village 
of Clynnog, a romantic spot, rising above an elevated 
level between the sea and the mountains, and contain- 
ing an excellent beach for bathing. This is a retired 
spot, possessing a good Inn, at which comfortable ac- 
commodation may be had. The church is the most 
magnificent structure in Wales, built in the form of a 
cross, in the Gothic style, and some of the windows are 
of painted glass. This church was evidently formerly 
a cathedral ; the interior arrangements have every ap- 
pearance of its having been such. Adjoining the 
church is a small Gothic building, called Capel Beuno 
(the Chapel of Beuno), supposed to have been origi- 
ginally founded about the year 616. This Welsh saint 
was the son of one of the Kings of Powys, and uncle 
to Winefred, the celebrated virgin of Holywell. He 
is said to be interred in the chapel. In the south- 
east corner of the church, near the altar table, is an 
old wooden chest, bolted with iron, and fastened to the 
floor, called Cyff Beuno (Beuno's Chest), where the 
offerings of persons affected with any disorders were 
deposited. The chapel is now used as a school-room. 
The monuments in the church are few, and of no par- 
ticular interest. 

About half a mile distant, on Bachwen Farm, near 
the sea, is a remarkable Cromlech, and near the church 
on the road to Pwllheli, is St. Beuno's Well, which 
was much famed for its healing qualities. In the 
mountain, about two miles distant, is a pretty water- 



65 

fall, called Rhaiadr Dibyn Mawr, which should be 
visited. 

From Clynnog proceed to the village of Llanael- 
haiarn, where there is a well, formerly famous for its 
healing qualities. From this village you ascend the 
Eifl Mountains, which are sometimes called The 
Rivals, as though one peak rivalled another Across 
the hollow of these mountains extends an immense 
rampart of stones, the ruins of a wall which effectually 
blocked up the pass. On these mountains are the most 
perfect and magnificent British posts called Tre'r Caeri, 
or the Town of the Fortresses. The accessible side 
was defended by three walls ; the lowest is very imper- 
fect, the next tolerably entire, and has in it the grand 
entrance. The facings of the two upper walls are very 
entire ; the whole is almost filled with cells. To be 
seen to advantage, the station should be taken from the 
summit, about which the cells are very distinct, and 
are mostly perfect, of various forms — round, oval, 
oblong, and square. The round ones were fifteen feet 
in diameter ; the oblong, thirty feet in length, with long 
entrances, regularly faced wdth stone. All of them, 
when inhabited, were well protected from the weather 
by roofs of thatch or sod. From hence descend into 
Nant Gwytherin, or Vortigern's Valley, the last re- 
treat and burial place of Vortigern, King of the Bri- 
tons, who fled here from the rage of his subjects, about 
the years 465. Some years ago a stone coffin was 
found by digging, which contained the bones of a tall 
man, supposed to be the remains of this unfortunate 
king. This valley is open to the sea, but is hemmed 
in on every side by steep barren mountains. It is in- 
habited by about three famihes ; w^ith one of whom 
lived a remarkable dwarf for many years, who was an 
object of great curiosity, and attracted many visitors 
to the spot. The writer of these pages saw him in 
1845, and never beheld an object of greater curiosity; 
he was then about sixty years of age, he died in 1846. 
Hence you may proceed to Nevin and Porthdynllaen, 



WILLIAM PRITCHAUD, 

BOOKSELLER, STATIONER. PERFUMER, &c., 
HIGH STREET, 

i0 A % M A m ¥ ® H p 

Jfaa constant^/ on handj of his oiot 2'>uhlish}ng, a (peat cartel (/ of 



LITHOGRAl'HIC VIEWS IN WALES, from Drawings by eminent 
Artists. Proof and Tinted Impressions, 1^. 6^. Plain \s, 

PRITCHARD'S LITHOGRAPHIC VIEWS IN WALES, containing a 
Collection of the best Scenery, neatly bound, 21?. 

PRITCHARD'S STEEL VIEWS, containing lieautiful Plates, neatly 
bound in Cloth, at 25. M., 3^., and 5^. 

LETTER VIEWS, from good Steel Plates, at 2(i, per Sheet. 

HISTORY OF CARNARVON CASTLE, with a GUIDJ^: FOR THE 
TOURIST TO THE SURROUNDING SCENERY, by AV. Pritohard, 
price \s. Illustrated and Bound in Cloth, 2.v. 

TRIP TO NORTH WALES, by John Parry, Is. 

PRITCHARD'S WELSH MOTTO WAFERS, 6^. per packet. 

HAYDEN'S WELSH AIRS, 106\ M. 

PARRY'S WELSH AIRS, 5^. 

SWEET RICHARD, a Prize Composition, by Mr. Richard Roberts, 
Harper, on Letter Paper, 2c?. 

AN ENGLISH AND WELSH TEACHER AND VUGABULART, by 
Richard Davies, price \s. 

ENGLISH AND WELSH DICTIONARIES. 

WELSH AND ENGLISH DO. 



Guide Books and Maps of Wales hij I'arhpis Pifh/isher^. 



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